I just tried to paint the cabin roof windows of the UH-1D that I’m in the process of building.
I used the Revell UH-1 kit instructions as a guide on what paints I needed to use. It says to mix Revell Clear Gloss with Revell Sea Green (95%:5% - as if you can measure that!).
So I bought those 2 paints and mixed them up with the majority being Clear Gloss, however the colour I’ve got on the windows is not the vibrant green I see on other people’s Hueys, and worse it’s all a bit foggy/streaky (I’ll put that down to probably putting too much green in, but without the amount I put in the mix wasn’t looking particularly green). I painted on the underside of the windows (which would be inside the cabin) if that makes any difference.
I know that I’ve more than likely ruined this set of cabin roof windows (and I probably should have tested on a spare piece of clear sprue first), but for future reference just exactly how do I achieve the effect I see on other people’s Huey cabin roof windows?
Testors Transparent Candy Emerald Green spray works great on them. Spray them while still on the sprue then add them to the model. Works great every time.
I’m in the UK and they don’t seem to be available in the UK. And Ebay doesn’t seem to have that particular one, and shipping from the US to the UK (most only ship to the US) seems to be relatively expensive (>$16) on the Testors paints that are on Ebay.
I’m thinking something like Humbrol or Revell or perhaps even Tamiya, although I don’t recall seeing transparent paints by those brands.
Upon further searching I have found that Tamiya do a gloss clear green pot of acrylic paint (called MiniX25 or something), I’ve found one on Ebay for £1.60 + £2 shipping so I’ve ordered that. Not sure of the shade of green, looks a bit dark but I will give it a go on some spare clear sprue and if it’s any good I’ll perhaps see if I can’t use my dremel to gently remove the existing paint on the cabin roof windows I’ve already painted.
Tamiya also appear to do a translucent green spray for use on polycarbonate RC body shells, which as far as I can work would be similar to that Testors one, but as it’s about £5+postage I’m not going to try that out as it’s a bit expensive considering what I’ll use it for.
Thanks for the tip though Gino, much appreciated, I thought it had to be something like a ready mixed spray or tin of clear green, that most people use to achieve that green window effect.
Last time I read an instruction booklet to find out what paints I need though. Lol.
I usually use Tamiya Clear Green fot that. To get an even finish, it’s good to thin it with water a little bit. Then it can be done with a paintbrush. Hope it helps, have a nice day
Now I realise I need advice on removing the paint (Revell clear gloss+sea green acrylic paint). If I do what I was thinking and use a grinding stone on my dremel it may remove the paint but it’ll leave the window scratched, won’t it?
Any tips on removing the paint from the window (I’ve just read somewhere else that toothpaste might be the answer?!)?
Now this one is easy - you can use either brake fluid (my favourite) or a drain or oven cleaner -something with sodium hydroxide in it. This stuff will make the paint peel away. Always try on a sprue first, though! Good luck with your project, have a nice day
Hmm, OK, thanks. I’ll have to see if I can find something. I don’t have brake fluid (don’t have a car for a start), nor do I have methyl hydrate. I’m kind of hoping I don’t have to go out and buy something (this helicopter project is costing me more than I’d like as it is).
I did buy some Fairy Power Spray a while back as it was rumoured to remove paint from Airsoft pistols, might give that a shot as it did kind of work as I recall.
Thanks again though guys, the help is much appreciated.
If is acrylic paint, Windex or any other cleaner with ammonia in it will strip it off. Brake fluid and oven cleaner work best on enamel paints. I don’t know anything about the wood alcohol (I’ve actually never heard of it before).
I have had excellent results with the Tamiya Clear Green airbrushed, for just that purpose, US helicopter overhead windows. If you do several light coats, you can get the vibrant level of green you’re looking for. As far as removing the old paint, if you were here stateside I would recommend using Testors/Polly Scale Easy Lift Off (ELO). But I do not know if that product is available in the UK.
Hi. here is what I did on the top section of my 1/48 Wasp’s cabin glazing to give it the blue tint.
I simply mixed a little blue (but green will do the same effect) food coloring into some Future (Pledge) ans airbrushed a few light coats to the inside of the canopy. Light coats helps to prevent pooling.
Not sure that will work, the kit I’ve painted the cabin roof windows on is a ESCI UH-1D. I’ll see if the same parts from the Revell UH-1B/C kit I’ve got fit, if they do then yes I’ll drop Revell a line as they were kind enough to supply the old Monogram UH-1C decals for free.
@Theuns - unfortunately I don’t have an airbrush, and I’ve never used one. So it’s either spray can (which is expensive just for doing a couple of small pieces) or brush.
Thanks for the tip though, that canopy on the Wasp looks great.
I’ve used Easter egg coloring (food dye) to tint Future as Theuns suggests and, though I’ve not tried it, I think you would be able to brush it on - don’t know about getting uniform color though. I have dipped clear parts and If they’re not on the model, dipping in green dyed Future will work and give a uniform color. I have brushed plain Future many times without problems - it has nice self-leveling properties
As I understand a mate of mine has done tinting with colored future and a flat soft brush, he accelerated the curing by using a heardrier to “boost” the future. In this way he got no pooling.
I think the trick with brushing future onto canopy or as a gloss decal coat on the model is to use a large flat and soft brush, I woul say atleast 1/2" (12mm) wide.
I have done it on a model and it works out well. I tint the inside of the canopy so that I can safely handle the outside without rubbing the color off. Seems very obvious I know LOL!
Try the brush idea, I think it will work well on your relatively flat windows. If you don;t like it just put it into more future to remove it.
If you have to hand brush, I suggest painting only the inner surface in the clear green. You may want to dip the part in Future after the paint has had time to dry and cure. I hand brushed this Huey’s top windows inner surfaces 25 or so some odd years ago when I built it…
these ones on my Kiowa were airbrushed and then dipped
