Have you heard of this wonder filler yet? Here is a link to a feature on the uses of Mr. Surfacer from Gunze-Sangyo, hope you find it useful.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html
Feel free to forward comments to me at webmaster@SwannysModels.com
Thanks for the link most useful
They carry the spray bottle of the 1200 at my lhs, but I haven’t picked it up as I’m not too big on spraycans. I might have to look again to see if they also carry the 500 and the 1k in a different area. Looks like this stuff might be pretty useful. I’m especially glad to see that you can airbrush the 1200. Thanks for the work there Swanny!
Another great article Swanny. [tup] Actually though it turns out that all of us are not using Mr. Surfacer the way it is intended. It’s actually meant as a sunblock. Yes you know when you see people with that white sfuff on thier nose and thier sunglasses. Just kidding LOL!!! Please don’t anyone go out now and do that!!! [:o)][:(][:D]
The reason is the 2nd most elusive mystery: Nobody seems to know what the bottles actually say
I’ve had good luck with 1000 and Laq thinner as a primer. It sure does soak up the paint though.
1001 uses
ROFLBCUTS
On the bottle of Mr Surfacer 500, it actually saids liquid putty
and for 1000 and 1200 it said primer for paint.
All 3 actually also come in spray can form. Finding them in the US is a little more difficault and very expensive but this is a VERY commonly use in Asia as primer.
I’ve had the 1000 on my bench for a year now, and it really is fantastic stuff[:D]
The 500 is on it’s way from the lhs.
The best part is the rapid drying time, none of this wait for an hour or two, just wack it on and get on with it.
To be honest, I’m a large fan of all of Gunzes gear, and use almost exclusively their acrylics.
Great product IMHO
How hot is this stuff? Is it like the floquil paint where you have to or should use a barrier because of the hot solvent base? I just curious on if it is a hot solvent then when you use it as a filler, how does the plastic hold up if you brush on to much or spray for to long. I have used only enamel and acrylic but have heard that when using the laqcuer based paints you need to spray at a distance so that when it hits the plastic it is almost dry when it hits so that there is no attacking the plastic. Forgive my cluelessness about this. I thought Mr. Surfacer was a primer for their acrylic paints.
It is relatively hot but I have not had a single issue with plastic melting when spraying or brushing the stuff. I have gone through a couple bottles now with 100% perfect results. Air pressure at about 18psi, range at 4 to 6 inches.
hi,
can i use nitrocellulose thinner or acetone to thin Mr surfacer to be airbrushed? another question… is lacquer thiner similar to nitrocellulose thinner? i seem to be able to thin Mr Surfacer with first aid alcohol. anybody out there airbrushed thinned with alcohol ? my airbrush seems to be always clogged after 10 min of use with mr surfacer cut with alcohol (1:1)…
I can’t answer about nitrocellulose thinner, but I can report that the recommended thinner is Gunze’s Mr. Color Thinner. It’s readily available online if not at your local hobby shop, though Mr. Color paints probably are not. I have never had a problem in three years’ usage with both 500 and 1000.
The paint is a little hot, but I’ve brushed 500 and sanded to a smooth finish. Airbrushing has never caused problems. Once cured, neither lacquers, enamels or acrylics have reacted with the primer.
Great “how to” article Señor Swanny, but I’ve got a question for you. Does Mr. Surfacer have to be sanded within a certain amount of time like gap filling glues that can dry harder than the plastic?
hey swanny, I recently got myself a bottle of gunze liquid (it says “dissolved”) putty along with some re-supplies for base white 1000 (mr surfacer in white =P) have you ever tried those or know any comparison between that and the mr surfacer 500? having not used 500 yet i can only assume the surfacer 500 is probably finer or thinner.
It’s the other way around actually. I haven’t used 500 either, but I believe it goes, in order of coarsest to finest, 500 - 1000 - 1200. Can’t help with the Mr “dissolved” putty I’m afraid.
Oh no, I was saying that I assumed 500 is finer than the dissolved putty.
Well, the dissolved putty is pretty much really putty with liquid cement like how people usually do it home-made (that’s how it smelled like). It dries pretty fast but requires a really good shaking then stiring prior to use to get it mixed up evenly, otherwise it’d look just fine like white glue when I apply it but will dry to look like a clear thick layer of cement with little minute chunks of broken down white putty in there. I think my regular squadron white putty was doing a better job filling up the seams. Worked out pretty well for some 1/35 figures though.
Sorry that I have not been keeping up with this post recently. I have not played with the dissolved putty yet. There is no time limit that you have to observe when sanding Mr. Surfacer other than to let it dry first.
I recommend to dissolve :
Putty tamiya + banana Oil = Ok
used oil of banana to remove enamel of nails
http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/TM87053.jpg
http://www.alergoshop.com.br/img/pro/130/óleo%20de%20banana.jpg
A very useful article, many thanks. Darren.
500 coarser in grit than is 1000 or than is 1200… smaller the number the coarser the finish as in sandpaper nomenclature.
Mr. Surfacer can be thinned with Floquil Diosol also or Liquid cement but why?
Overall these three products are more for final finish paint surface preparation, small surface mars or minor seam filling.
The best thing for filling seams or flaws can be accomplished by me possibly sharing an article and discussion that I gave at an IPMS Convention in Atlanta some twenty five years ago now…
The answer is simply Testors Liquid Cement mixed with Squadron Green Putty in a mix of some one part liquid cement to five parts Green Stuff… this is a thick coarse mixture that can be applied and then pulled, scratched, stamped or tacked to give various looks or cast surface features and thess varied mixtures readily adhere or bind to the plastic’s surface. It also lasts for months or years in the bottle without going bad or hardening up… simply shake and use. Simply put a couple of BB’s if you wish into the jar and shake… I have some different consistancy mixtures laying on the workbench that have been used and added to or remixed for years now. I really prefer the old Testors low form square liquid cement bottles (that have the brush in the jar as they do not tip over like the new tall cylindrical ones now do) and I have saved my old jars for just this purpose built mixture.
The ‘Green stuff’ mixture can be made more thin with the addition of more liquid cement. The mix can also be made with Squadron White Putty (which is finer in texture) but the consistancy is a bit different and gives a less coarse texture finish than does the green putty version. You can color it with paint as well to derive different undercoat or primer colors to chip through the overlying paint to achieve great weathering looks for your paint.
Here is what can be achieved with this mixture for surface texture… and is simple to use and inexpensive…
Here are three forms (colors) of this mixture used in white, red and green to fix a flaw in the conversion and addition of a three piece transmission cover to backdate an Italeri 1/35 Priest… I actually primed nearly the entire surface of the rolled armor segments to add texture and pitting and then went back and fixed the minor flaws or problems found after ‘priming’…
If you look closely you will see that I have an extra-fine version in pale blue and used it to correct a problem on the PE siren… using it just like Mr. Surfacer 1200 to fill minor imperfections.
The surface now has great ‘bite’ for paint application and shows any errors that can be addressed before final paint application layers…
Look to the surface texture that is also applied to the “Priest’s front face” near the lights… as an example of what can be achieved…
Mr. Surfacer 500 is much thinner than this mixture I am proposing for readers to try but can be used directly on top of this ad hoc “green stuff” slurry.
Need more help contact me through… http://www.afrikakorps.org/ and then click link to Nacht… hope this adds to readers work benches for another method or tool to use when needed…