Use putty ? to seal it or seal it with cement and sand it smooth ?
I lightly sand the faces and clamp it with some light pressure clamps (I use an X-Acto brand). I then run some Tamiya extra fine liquid cement along the seam. Double check it to insure the seam is even and I set it aside for an evening. After it is dry I lightly sand the seam to remove the line. Sometimes putty is required to get the tube round once again.
I use the lazy man’s method. I buy a one-piece AM barrel. [:)]
I like the ones from Eduard the most, as they come with the break right on them, and they usually drop fit right onto the mantlet/gunshield.
I usually hold the peices together, then run a thin cement to seal the cracks. Then I press the peices together to squeeze the exess glue out. Then I let the glue dry, and sand, and cut off the beads of exess.
If you can get your hands on some Tenax cement, your seam troubles are over. This is a plastic weld product that you simply apply to the seam, hold for ten seconds, and sand off the weld until its smooth, amazing stuff.Steve
You can do the above procedure with any liquid cement. It is the method I use and highly recommend. Personallly think AM metal turned barrels are an overpriced gimmick and I don’t waste my money on them.
[#ditto] the liquid cement. It is one of a modellers best friends.
LeopardIIA6,
I go along with the liquid cement method. But you can be old fashioned and use regular tube cement and get the same results. Takes a bit more care than the liquid as you have to get enough glue to fill the seam but not so much that it gets all over the barrel. It tends to marr the plastic more so than the liquid.
Joe [:D]
[#ditto] plus… I sand with a foam block that I get at the local beauty supply house. They sell different grits and sizes. It helps to cut down on flat spots. The foam conforms more to the barrel shape.[2c]
Thanks
I take your question to mean you already glued the plastic barrel together and still have a gap in the seam,if so what i use is super glue (ca). I put a small drop on an curved
hobby knife blade (#22)and lay it into the gap, less is best ,then touch it with some accelerator,and sand.
do any gun have mould line in between them ?
Could you rephrase the question? I am not sure what you want to know. Greg.
Please clearify question.
Cmon now, they are not that overpriced.
Whats 10$ for a good quality turned metal barrel.
[:)]
oops … i mean that do any tank guns(in actual tanks) have a line in the centre of the barrel
Sorry, still think they are way overpriced. $10 for $0.25 worth of actual aluminum. $10 for an Am barrel, $30 for metal track, $25 for a PE set, etc., etc… You now have a model that has over $100 in AM stuff added on a $25-$35 model. That to me is crazy. I can make a model that looks just as good by using some old fashioned skill in building and a few scratch built or modified parts. I am not a big fan of AM parts and think that most of them are way overpriced.
No tank barrels have a line down them that I know of. They are all smooth tubes, or covered in a cloth type cooling jacket.
Glue and seal with liquid glue. Sand smooth and paint a line of flat black over the joint. This will act as a primer and show any low spots or areas that need more attention. Apply putty to any areas that need filling and sand, prime, etc., till all seams are gone. It is really not that difficult a process to get round barrels without a seam line.
I guess it all depends on how much effort you want to put into making the barrel look like a real gunbarrel.
Far as I’m concerned, no plastic barrel, no matter how much effort you put into it, is going to look better than a turned barrel. What you are shooting for it to make it look as good as the turned barrel.
For me the choice is obvious. Save the trouble and buy the barrel. [:)] For people who see the challenge of overcoming kit deficiencies as fun, the answer is obviously different. It’s all good, as the youth of today like to say, for reasons best known to them.