The wife asked me if I could do a model of her first car. I couldn’t believe it but they make a model of a Ford Pinto station wagon. I guess they will make a model of anything. LoL.
I need suggestions on reproducing the fake wood grain. I’ve experimented several times and the closest I’ve come is a base coat of dark brown then a over wash of tan. It looks like I tried brushing on paint. Just not convincing enough.
Ideas?
Sounds like you left out the key step of drag- or dry-brushing with a different tone to replicate a ‘graining’ effect. I personally like to do my base-coats in acrylic, then wash and drybrush with enamels. You can dry-brush with acrylics, but they’re generally faster-setting and get a bit ‘stiff’ to use.
This might be an ideal thing to look for on Youtube. There are probaby dozens of tutorials on the technique, using whatever materials you prefer.
If you have any more specific questions, serve 'em up. There’s a pretty good talent pool here.
Either way, best of luck!
[And no shame about the Pinto. I’ve recently found myself contemplating building Kate Jackson’s pumpkin-orange '77 Pinto from ‘Charlie’s Angels.’ [:$]]
I have been researching this technique for a while now (RMS Titanic build soon) and i found this video that shows 3 different techniques and they look fairly easy. let me know how it goes!
I forgot to mention…there are also a variety of easy-to-use wood-grain decals available, which might be a good choice for the large ‘woody’ panels on the wagon.
Thanks for posting that link, Lowfly!
There’s a wide variety of wood grain decals available for the WWI wingnuts. Also model railroaders.
Check out this website:
https://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-wood-grain-decals/
My Freshman girlfriend had a white hatchback with some kind of strange cheat line decal around the beltline. Not a great car to try to make out in.
[:D]
My process for wooden laminated propellers, adapted to a flat panel
Paint the panel with a mid tan that approximates the background/predominant color of the wood. Seal this with Future/gloss to allow you to more easily fix problems down the line
Use an artists fan shaped brush to lightly add in grain streaking. Go lightly, less is more. Go with an acrylic or oil. If you make a mistake or add too much wipe it off the gloss coated base color and start over. You may counter streak with some lighter colors to accentuate the grain effect
When dry spray a light, well thinned coat of Tamiya clear yellow to make a varnished look. Clear orange is also an option for a heavier varnish look
Hello!
This thread could be very interesting, but it needs pictures!
Good luck with your builds and have a nice day
Paweł
It’s important to work from a sample or photograph in order to make it real.
I’m thinking contact paper or the wood grained duck tape that’s around, since that’s basically what this stuff was to begin with, although thicker and broader in full scale.
Hi;
No pics,but, here’s what I did with a Ford Fairlane conversion to a Country Squire !. I used the decking stuff from two different ships that someone gave me .( parts were missing ) Worked perfectly ! One deck’s parts were darker than another .I think one was carrier deck parts ( darker) and cruiser ( lighter ) .
De[ends on size and shape of area. For large, relatively flat areas I make homemade wood grain decals. I have shot several wood doors of different wood, then use the image to make inkjet decals.
For smaller parts or complex shape ones, I use two colors of brown. I paint the light brown first then dry brush the darker color in a grain pattern.
Here’s a trick I’ve used on bigger parts, might want to try it on a spare part before doing it on the actual model.
-Noah
Thanks for all the responses, I’m Just not happy with my attempts, going to try decals. Thought I’d make a paper temple then cut out the decal. I have some time before the decals show up in the mail so I think I’ll keep trying.
Hand painted plywood. Base coated with a light tan, then I used several heavily thinned Vallejo colors and a 10/0 liner brush.
The side armor is plastic as well. I took a razor saw to texture the “grain” and painted accodingly. I drybrushed the worn areas.
