How to remove scratches from the canopy?

I picked up a 1/48 F-18C Revell kit yesterday for the Community Build Project. When I opened up the box to see what I got myself into, I noticed the canopy was all scratched up. I’m guessing that when the contents of the box shifted around (from shipping, handling in the store, etc) the canopy sprue and the other parts rubbed against each other (a lot).

This is my first aircraft kit. I’ve never dealt with clear plastic parts before. What’s the best way to remove the canopy? I’m guessing it involves “polishing” with a really, really fine grit sandpaper…or maybe not. [;)]

Replacement is not an option. It’s not in the spirit of the Community Build Project - no aftermarket parts. Besides that I’m doing this with my boys so waiting for something to arrive in the mail isn’t really an option. [:)]

Any help would be appreciated.

Here’s how I would go about doing it. The first thing you need to do is evaluate how deep the scratches and determine what grit you will need to get it out. You might start with a 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then if you can find it go to finer grit sandpapers. You can go to MicroMark and get it down to something like 10000 grit. But you really don’t have to go that far. Something like a 1200 grit if you can get it will be great. If not don’t worry. Use a plastic polish for the next step. What we’re really doing is going to an even finer ebrasive. I’ve used microscale products in the past. But believe it or not toothpaste is an excellent mile ebrasive and polish for plastics. Use it with a cotton t-shirt and really puff it out. Once you think it’s looking pretty darn good the next thing to do is to… oh no… not again… coat it with FUTURE. We should write a book about Future. Anyway, what this will do is fill in those tiny scratches you’ve created with the various grades of sanding and polishing you’ve done and create a new smooth surface over the plastic. It will look great when you’re done. Carefull not to sand away any detail. As far as removing clear plastic from spure, be careful because sometimes you can crack the clear and there’s not enough Future in the world to help you then. I use a pair of aviation sheers, but nail clippers should work well too. Use a No. 11 blade to shave off any remianing sprue material. use the above techniques to get rid of the scratches and such. Best of luck!
Dave

bayonet, depending on the depth of the scratches, you might want to just try dipping it in Future first. If they are minor surface scuffs, often a coat or two of future will fix it up very well. If they’re too deep, then you’ll need to go through the polishing routine. If you don’t have polishing cloths, you might be able to do it with a ‘rubbing’ compound and lots of elbow grease (I have some meant for cars and it works pretty good for removing small blemishes.). Follow up with a ‘polishing’ paste and some future.
Another thing I sometimes do for small scratches, etc. is use a pencil eraser. It is amazing what these things will erase.

Good luck. Looking forward to seeing some pics for the CBP!!

M.

I wouldn’t reccomend sandpaper, especially if your’e a beginner. Best bet for you is a mild rubbing compound and a soft cloth. I use toothpaste as a compound and an old “retired” T-shirt for a cloth. Will take a lot of rubbing but eventually the scratches will be gone. Don’t use too much muscle, the acrylics used for canopies is brittle and fragile. Just take your time and you’ll get there. I also coat my canopies with Future floor polish after scratch removal but that’s getting a little advanced for your first model.

If the scratches aren’t too deep, you can use Novus #2 polish to remove them.

Well wouldn’t you know it…the simplest things sometimes work the best. [:)]

I guess they weren’t really that deep - minor scuffing maybe? Maybe it looked worse than it really was. [:I]

Thank you guys for all the advice!! This forum is great - if it weren’t for people like you all to ask these type of questions, I think I definitely would have made things worse.

I’m glad to hear the eraser worked!! I have found that little thing VERY handy in the last few weeks. I just kinda stumbled on it one day as I was putting future on a car and ended up scuffing it a bit. Tried the eraser and VOILA! I keep it handy all the time now…

M.

You can also remove scratches caused when the modeling company is too cheap to package the clear parts seperately with a nail file meant for final polishing. Hobby shops sell them as a three way file, but it is much cheaper to get these at the Health and Beauty department at Wal-Mart.
A few quick passes and voila, crystal clear again.

Don

I use a brand of plastic polish called NOVUS that has 3 different strength liquid polishes. I start with #3 and use 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until all scratches are out. I then go to #2 and 600 wet and dry and sand in the same direction until the 400 grit scratches disappear. I then go to 1200 grit wet and dry with #2 polish, repeating the same steps. Last is #1 with cheesecloth, buffing moderately in the same direction I sanded.
This is a canopy I finished with this process and came out pretty good.

A great polish for canopies is Blue Magic metal polish, found at automotive supply stores and a jar will last a lifetime!

boybuddho - that cockpit looks really nice.

Hey guys and gals in case you ladies are reading this also

can you tell me where I can get this Novus plastic polish I have the same problem in case the future doesn’t work

Ronald

I just finished dealing with the canopies of my 1/72 Gannet which Trumpeter kindly molded a lovely ridge down the centerline of each canopy. I agree with the sanding description below except for one small difference. From back when I used to grind mirrors you will find that when you switch to each of the next grit size you should wet sand perpendicular to the previous sanding. This produces a more uniform sanded surface and makes it easier to see when you have succeeded in removing the previous grit-size scratches. Micromark also make a great set of polishing pads that go down to about 10,000 grit. Finish up with Future and you’ll never know the difference.

Go here and they will send you a new one for just the cost of shipping. Check out the rest of the model just in case there is something else missing.

http://www.revell.com/Need-Parts.parts.0.html

Zip

I had the same problem with an F-16 canopy. The scuff marks were quite bad. I used several coates of Future ( let it dry between applications) with the final coat of tinted Future ( food coloring added to future). If this procedure fails , you can quickly remove the Future with any ammonia based window cleaner. In any case if you must polish the canopy, use a very fine grit such as toothpaste and go easy on the pressure. Follow up with Future ( I have no stock in the company) to clarify and thin the look of the canopy.