How to make simple snow for suspension and armor

Modeling Subjects Armor
1

Hi guys,

Toot #2 here, on how to make simple snow for your suspension and tracks, etc. This is how I made the snow on my Trmpeter S51 as seen here;

I’ll make it quick and easy: here ya go:

The icicles are made from stretched CLEAR sprue, like you would find clear parts attached to. WHen you heat this, heat it SLOWLY over a flame. If you get too close to the flame, it will blacken the plastic and defeat your intention. FIle the ends of the sprue to points to simulate icicles, and attach with superglue. That’s all there is to it! [:)]

2

I usually use the Elmer’s and water trick, or acrylic medium, then apply the snow. I never thought of mixing them. I’ll give that a try next time

Thanks.

3

for snow i use MIG’s pigments. also it can be sodium carbonate (but only for 35, 16 scales) . and aslo good way is sugar powder (you can do it bu yourself - just put sugar to coffee grinder)

4

Vladimir, thanks for your suggestions–MIG Pigments are fine, but I have to almost laugh here, because I klnow that anyone who knows me and who is reading this post will be laughing at me, knowing that I’m going crazy right now because of your suggestions to use sodium bicarbonate–what we refer to as “Baking Soda” here in the USA, and “sugar powder”. RIght now, you can picture me like this:

lol–Honestly, one of the reasons that I made this posting is to PREVENT people from using chemically active ingredients or “foodstuffs” – kitchen products, food, etc that has similarity to small grains of “snow”–as bad choices for snow products made specifically for modelling applicaions. I will only say this, once more, and with emphasis: DO NOT USE FOOD PRODUCTS OR SODIUM BICARBONATE FOR SNOW!!! You risk disastrous after-effects and consequences from potential chemical interactions between the products and the solvents an carriers in the paints or clear coats!

I started a separate thread here in the diorama section that you, or anyone else who is thinking of using these cheap substitutes. You ought to read through the various testimonials and experiences so you don’t wind up making the huge mistake that can ruin your model collection.Click this link:

Modeling Snow: Do’s and Don’t’s

5

Karl, a nice toot. I have yet to use my woodland sciences snow, I still need to replace the baking soda on my old Tiger II kit. But I really want to do some snow dio’s and am going to have to keep this one on file.

And just one suggestion.

Deep breath and count to 10. [;)]

6

I use Baking soda a lot and I’ve not had any problems. But I’ve been using it for years and I know how it reacts to what I use.

Like all things it takes experimentation. :slight_smile:

7

If you read european scale model magazines you can see that many modellers use food products for diorama. especailly in little cities where people can’t buy special pigments.

And about soda - i hadn’t any problem with it and there wasn’t chemical reaction with plastic. Of course it’s difficult to fix soda on armor but it’s easy to fix sugar powder. In my opinion there needs to be all types of tips for all people with any money budget.

And the main idea is to do model and diorama by marerials at hand. it’ll be true model.

8

Yes, I do read those, and I try to educate any modeler I can find on the heartbreaking experience that I had which ruined about a dozen much-loved models in my collection–and at a time when I was not financially able to replace them. So much for the wisdom of using “cheap” or “budget” products. [:'(]

All we can do here is share the experiences which make us better modelers, as well as sharing the mistakes that we’ve made. I can only say to both you and M. Brindos, “Don’t say you weren’t warned”. [whstl]

I reiterate my warning for all those who would read this: DO NOT USE CHEMICALLY-ACTIVE HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS IN YOUR MODELING because you risk DISASTER!!

9

Warning received. :slight_smile:

Like all things in modelling, experimentation is always needed.

10

Thanks for the tip on how to apply this particular product. I’ve only used it once, relying on hairspray to ‘tack’ it to surface areas. The method presented here should prove to be much more durable. [Y]

regards,

Jack

11

I agree with M.Brindos. experimentation is needed. I guess people is smart and understand what they do.

12

Well I understand how baking soda reacts to super glue, white glue, model cement, enamels, and acrylics. It’s all old hat for me.

But if someone were to just slap it on without understanding first how the stuff will react to what they’re using it with then I can see why he has such strong opposition to using it.

13

Jack, yes, the nice thing is that it looks perfectly “dry” when it dries, and it’s as durable as dried white glue. Additionally, I would recommend that it you want to get more of a “powder” look, you could then add a very thin, diluted coat of white glue and THEN sprinkle dry powder on it. [:)]

14

Mike,

Listen, I know that this is going to almost sound “snarky” or sarcastic, perhaps, but it’s not intended that way. Just want to get that on the record. [proplr]

In your profile, you call yourself a “no budget modeler”, and go on to say that you try to get by on a limited budget for modeling. There are a LOT of guys in similar position on this site, stated or otherwise. ’

You also say “Maybe I can prove myself while I’m here.”.

OK, so in all sincerity, since this thread is both a tutorial for making snow, but also a warning against what you are basically claiming that you intimately understand–the interaction and reactions of various household chemicals when employed in modeling situations–then why don’t you be gracious enough to share what you know and to elucidate your experiences and knowledge about these reactions? In the spirit of sharing knowledge–my raison d’etre for being here and posting these threads–would you please fill in the gaps and share what you have learned in terms of what these reactions would be? I’m sure that the community would appreciate the clarification and the benefit of your experience. [:)]

15

Okay.

First, I promise that I won’t take this challenge as a rude insult, as you do not intend for it to be an insult. I will gladly share what limited knowledge I have on this subject.

I am a “no budget” modeller, and I will explain that briefly; I have no job, no allowance, and no one gives me any money. My Father does sometimes buy me supplies, such as some new acrylic paint I received for Christmas. I saved up some left over change from the bus just to get a small pot of Flat White at Michael’s a month ago. So yeah, I’m poor and I have no budget, but I get by with what I can find around the house.

Most of the modelling I’ve been doing recently has been finding old kits, broken or unfinished in my old boxes, and rebuilding and repainting them for the practice.

So I do know how to use baking soda for texturing: dirt, mud, and rust mostly. I’ve NEVER used it as an ad-hoc filler because it does have a bad habit of cracking as it hardens over time. This you obviously already know, I believe.

I can tell you how I have used it and how it has worked for my applications.

Using baking soda with;

  1. White Glue: (Very pliable, Long drying time, Absorbs paint) I use this for making mud textures. Mixed with dark earth tones of acrylic paints and watered down with the baking soda it makes a paste that dries like real mud. As it dries the tones will lighten. Because the baking soda is an absorbent materiel you can add more “stains” to it after it dries to darken it as you wish. Until it fully dries you can mush it around like clay to shape it if you desire. This technique was used on the bottom of the model in the picture below.

(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/PICT0272.jpg.html)]

  1. Super Glue: (Nearly instant drying time, Hardens quickly, Paint as if plastic) This is best if you need to make small lumps of mud, moss, or raised dirt formations. I wouldn’t try building it up past anything more than 1/8 of an inch, only because I have not yet done so and that’s where my experience ends. Once you sprinkle the baking soda over a drop of Super Glue it dries within seconds. You can’t mush this around like you can with the White Glue.

I used this method on the base of the Space Marine in the picture below to simulate built up moss.

(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141001_085833.jpg.html)]

  1. Liquid Model Cement (Testors): (Mildly pliable, Medium drying time, Paint as if plastic) I’ve found this makes a good rust texture that is to my liking. With this method you need to apply the cement first and then sprinkle on the baking soda. This method also takes a little longer to dry than if you were simply gluing plastic pieces together. I’ve never re-applied this mixture over itself so I do not how that will react. In this poor quality picture below you may see some of the rust texture.

(http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DJMikeOz/media/DSCN0313cropped.jpg.html)]

Aside from the White Glue mixture being absorbent after it dries, I paint the other two as if they were molded from plastic. I have had no adverse reactions from painting these mixtures with Acrylic (Artists Advantage and Daler Rowney) or Enamels (Testors and Model Masters) paints. I don’t mix these with any significant thickness and only have been using these methods primarily for textures.

I apologize to any of you who thought I would describe some horrific chemical explosions with any of my experimentations regarding Baking Soda. That simply has never happened to me. I can say that there is validity in warning you from using these methods. If you get the white glue mixture too thick it will crack, but that, as mud, can be used to your advantage.

I’ve never used baking soda as a home-made filler as I have been told of how it will crack between joins and that will ruin a model’s finish for sure. These are the only ways I have been reliably using baking soda during my years as a modeller.

If you do choose to use any of these methods you do need to experiment with your materials at hand to know how they will react (not likely to explode so don’t get your hopes up) with each other and how you can best use those reactions to your advantage.

Thank you for the opportunity to share what I know on this subject, doog. :slight_smile:

You can call me Mike. lol

16

doog

You are a great instructor. I’ve learned many things from you,

17

A good cautionary tail by two avid modelers.

Thank You Both !

Your ability’s to layout your rational for your points of view is both interesting, informative and a pleasure to read .

It leaves with the reader the decision, as to how best we can use the information given.

Again, many thanks for the care and gentlemanly discourse , sadly all too often absent from forums in the interwebery world

Well Done Both

18

Mike,

First, I’ve edited my former post to accurately reflect your name. [:$]…[:)] Sorry about that!

Secondly, thank you with all sincerity for your willingness to share your experiences and knowledge in this tricky field of interactions and materials. Thanks for the maturity with which you handles this exchange as well. Many times–and I have been guilty of it myself [whstl]—these kind of exchanges DO turn into “peeing contests” and ego-fests, and nothing gets learned or taught, which serves no one. I welcome the input and if your post can help some guys out who are in the same boat as you with regard to their modeling budget, that’s all the better–nothing could make me happier, as I have learned myself so much from these forums and all the wonderful people here that it’s nice to see the arrival of yet another person willing to share and contribute and not “hoard” their knowledge like it’s gold…some guys do that too in the modeling world, and that’s a shame.

Welcome aboard, and I do look forward to seeing more from you, both in terms of models AND knowledge and tricks and tips! [Y][B]

19

Thanks, Steve. I agree that this thread turned out in thebest way possible–the sharing of information and everyone wins in the end. I can’t say that I’ll be using baking soda in the future myself, but it’s great for the forums to have a balanced counter-opinion presented in a civil and well-detailed manner!

I hope others will feel inclined to contribute as well!

20

Hey thanks a bunch, Ibuild48! (Forgive me if I ask your proper name again?!! [:$])I’m always happy to share what I"ve learned–however disastrous the results, lol!

That’s what I"m here for! [:D] Sharing and learning! [t$t]