I was trying to stretch the tracks of my Type 97 Chi Ha to create some sag. Alas, I got carried away and made them too long! (Yes, very stupid!) One link on each track was visibly over stretched by my blowdryer. I decide to remove that link and overlap the next link (sliced thinner) under the link before (also sliced thinner) and join them somehow. What would work as an adhesive? CA doesn’t seem to do anything on vinyl. Would 2-part epoxy work? I’m thinking of using a hot screwdriver to fuse the links together as a last resort.
If CA isn’t doing the trick, then you have the old style rubber that has to be melted with a hot screwdriver. To reinforce the joint, you may want to try some thead. If you careful, you should be able to hide it reasonably well.
Thanks for the hints! I also have Tamiya’s old M3 Grant kit. The track link connectors and guide horns are at the wrong place and I planned to cut them off and glue them back on the right location. If no adhesive works for the old type vinyl, that means my plan for the Grant tracks won’t work. Any suggestion other than track replacement?
I’d go with track replacement… the problem I always had with Vinyl tracks was the fact that I could never get the proper sag on it, say the Late Tiger I built! It’s up to you, and I know everyone hates putting together Indy tracks, but the effort really is worth it!
I also have the M3 Grant and know what you mean about the connectors. I’m one who always looks to modify kit parts or scratchbuild rather than buy aftermarket, but for the M3, I don’t think that modifying the kit’s vinyl tarcks is particularly feasible, leaving replacement as the only option.
AFV-Club sells vinyl T-49 steel bar tracks that were often used on Commonwealth vehicles. I’ve seen that track pattern used on Grant Scorpions, although as far as I know, the only track that would be correct for 1942 (Gazala, El Alamein) would be the Double-I bar. RHPS has that design as an indy link.
I’m aware of the AM double-I replacement. Thanks for the hint though. I share your philosophy about AM parts. In fact, I think accessories should never exceed the cost of the kit. I may change my mind and face reality later. But as of now, I’m a little stubborn and will continue to find a way to modify, kitbash, scratch build those tracks. Who knows, Academy may release an accurate kit before I figure out a way.
You could also try stapling them back together. There’s always a way to hide the bent ends of the staple behind a wheel or with some mud… I used to melt mine but after a couple of disatrous attempts, I found that the staple(s) work better.
I went to Home Depot and picked up a glue with a blue bull on the fromt of it. It’s put out by Elmers. It worked great on my Trumpeter vinyl tracks. I’ll poist a pic of the bottle if you want.
After some quick research on the Net I found out that Elmer’s Ultimate Glue is also known as Probond Ultimate Glue, and is a water-activated polyurethane glue similar to Gorilla Glue. Unfortunately the major hardware stores in Canada (including Home Depot) don’t seem to carry it. Does anyone know where to get this glue in BC?
Got a chance today to actually visit a Home Depot here. Found the glue! It’s called PROBOND Polyurethane Glue in Canada, and comes in at least two sizes. I got a 60ml bottle for under $5 Canadian. It looks exactly like the posted picture except for the label. I’ll report how well it works for me once I have a chance to experiment with it.
Believe me, if I’d had the option of using link and length tracks on my Trumpeter Type 74 tank, I’d have done so in a New York Minute! Unfortunately, there are no such animals for this kit, it is still too new. I had no choice.
I love link & length tracks, always have. Some kits just don’t give you a choice.
I did a little experiement with the said Ultimate/Probond Polyurethane glue. It looks very promising! I made the test difficult by butt-joining two vinyl track links I cut off from the Chi Ha tracks. I thought if this works, it should handle lap joints with ease.
Procedures: I cleaned the parts and stick a toothpick through each of the two holes in each track. Then I stck the other ends of the toothpicks to a piece of styrofoam, aligning the track links so they touch each other edge-wise. Then I apply water to one joining edge and glue on the other, clamp them together with a clothe pin at the supporting toothpicks. After 24 hours, I examine the now-butt-jointed links.
Results: The joint looks acceptably clean for tracks, with a little excess glue visible. The joint is quite strong. I couldn’t pull them apart. (But then there was very little grip for my fingers with these small parts, and I didn’t try that hard.) The joint only broke when I flex it too much. When broken, the glue can be removed clean off the vinyl. This bodes well for correcting mistakes if the joint is not satifactory.
Conclusion: I think this glue is adequate for jointing vinyl tracks butt-wise as long as the tension or the bending moment is not excessive. If used in a lap joint or with other reinforcement, it will probably produce as stong a bond as needed for any vinyl track application. Thanks Duke Maddog, for the suggestion!
