I have played with this stuff for years. I have it from Verlinden (bought in 84 in Germany still in the original bag) from H&A studios, from Games Workshop and some other unknown sources I have followed all the advice from Shep Paine and his wonderful illustrations, the FSM articles to the Games Workshop site depictions on how to apply it and get it to stand up.
When I apply the thinned white glue and let it set for jsut a moment, and then sift my SG using a large kitchen strainer over the area, I get a ton of grass laying on the surface. Then I invert the base and shake it off, as directed by any of the numerous sources I have on hand. Fine. Great. Good.
Only its doe NOT look anything like the thick green lawns presented for our approval. What I wind up with looks more like my own real lawn…when the shaking is all done there is plenty of space between the 'blades" to see the ground underneath. The SG that remains is thin, unevenly coated and most of it resists the glue’s stranglehold on it to “stand up” when I blow across the surface. That part that DOES stand up quickly falls off when I try to do the paint/drybrush routine on the grass.
I have tried different brands of white glue, applied both by pump action spray and by brush. I have varied my thinning ratios from very thinned glue to almost straight from the bottle. I have tried to add additional glue after a day or so to help the surviving grass stick to the base as I paint and weather it. I love the effect it gives when well done, but after twenty years of messing with this stuff, I have about given up on it.
I am opento ideas on how to improve. I see the work some of you are doing and its fantastic so I know I am missing part of the picture somewhere. I have a nats project due and it is based on photos of the real machine, where it came to rest on grass.
Get a static generator. There was an article in Model Railroader back in the 70’s or 80’s on the technique, using a Wittmanstatten generator. I’ve seen the generators available online.
I’ve tried various forms of ‘grass’ and none compare to the ones premade in sheets from some of the European companies like Heki which is distributed by Portman Hobby Dist in Peekskill NY. A friend gave me a left over chunk and I love the stuff.
I agree many of the DIY grasses are either too sparse or look like someones well manicured and fertilized lawn. This grass mat from Heki is available in the right color choices and is the correct length. IMHO
Remember too that native grasses only grow to a certain length, then they lay over and stop growing.
I’ve never been able to get static grass to look like the real thing. Some efforts have been more reasonable than others, but none of them have ever come close to the real thing. If you discover the trick to it, post it and clue the rest of us in.
I have a technique that works for me. Using my thumb,forefinger,and middle finger, I take big pinches of grass and sort of stab it into the glue. After I apply the grass,I tip over the base onto a large sheet of paper to catch the bulk of the loose grass. Then I use a vacuum with a hose attachment to make the rest of the grass stand erect. I put pantyhose over the nozzle so I can retrieve the leftover grass and to slightly reduce the suction strength of the vacuum. This actually works pretty good but you have to experiment to get the results you are looking for. I mix light green,blonde and a small amount of dark green grasses to achieve a more realistic effect.
Ok we are two for two on the vac-u-suck idea so I am game.
Your exhale SHOULD be the low pressure source when you blow OVER not ON the grass, lowering the air pressure above it and causing it to stand up, but in effect I guess we just dont have the lung power.
Just out of dumb curiosity, since I’m thinking of using the same stuff from my LHS, but have you tried the Woodland Scenics items that they make for model railroading?
Alright who knows electrical stuff? How hard is it going to be to put together one of those cool applicators? I want to try but well I limit my electrical knowledge to installing light fixtures and our electric fence (which really doesn’t feel good at all).
I read that the home made applicators can give you a nasty shock if you are careless with them. This sounds sick but I ordered the Noch staitc grass applicator. It is pretty expensive ($150.00) but I am making a 1/35 scale scene of an entire Par 3 hole for a friend and I will need to make the grass look as manicured as possible.
I’ve used the Games Workshop grass in the past for 40K figures, and I had problems with it looking sparse too. From what I remember, the instructions tell you to put down your thinned glue, dump the grass on and then invert the model and tap the excess grass off. This always seemed to knock way too much grass off the model, so what I settled on (seems silly to say this, but) is to apply the grass, and leave the glue to dry for an hour or two without inverting and tapping. Once the glue was dry, I would dump the excess back into the tub and lightly blow on the grass a bit to help it stand up. I just went and looked at some of my old 40K model bases, and the grass looks pretty good, thick and standing up pointing in random directions (in a realistic way, might not work for a putting green). I always enjoyed putting the grass on the bases, because it was the very last step to a squad or vehicle and meant it was all finished. Sorry to drag up this older thread, but I just joined and thought I should share my experience.
I had read somewhere about a technique… apply your static grass as per usualy method. Then, place your base on an older TV set while it is on. Static charge should make the grass stand straight up.
Doesn’t work on my plasma. Oh darn.
For areas other than a golf gourse, I plant a tweezer’s worth of grass into wet (w/ glue) real dirt and sand then, using a dental pick, I shape the grass; when dry, I airbrush scenic glue across the lot. When that’s dry, I airbrush shades of green, then lightly drybrush shades of yellow:
Again, this won’t look like a well-groomed golf course.
