How do I fix my ugly paintjob

Hi all. I just woke up to check on my paintjob that dried overnight. I put the drying body piece inside a closed drying container to keep the dust out. I lined the bottom with some papert towels to keep it from sticking to the paint. Unfortunately, I was shocked to see that parts of the paper towel stuck onto the body. I removed it, and it lookes like rough spots that have been raised to the surface, so it pops out when you touch it. The spots were just small specks, but very noticable.

I immediately grabbed onto some 6000 grit to sand the small rough areas, to make it smooth. It looked smooth enough, so I painted it again with TS-30 Silver leaf. Unfortunately, I realized that I painted too thick with the rattlecan.

Open Photo

I tried to wipe the laquer off with a paper towel, but then it dried pretty quickly, and the lines are there, and it looks worse.

My guess is to wait for around 6 hours to let the paint dry, and wetsand the very ugly layer of paint until it gets to the point where it becomes smooth again, then add 2 light coats of rattle can paint (ts-30).

rookie mistake

Also, I would like to ask, How do you prevent dust from going to the model? My guess is to place it inside a box, but then I have to separate the painting stand of the car model in order to let the part fit, but then I have to be extremely careful not to touch the paint. Do I just leave the model to dry in my spraying booth?

I feel like I should sand the paint and start all over again. How do you do this correctly?

You’re not going to like this:

Leave it for a week, then sand out the rough spots and repaint. Handling less than fully cured paint is never a recipe for success.

Concur with MJY65. You have to resist the temptation to try and correct a painting mistake or defect until AFTER the paint has fully cured, and a week is usually what is required for rattle can paintjobs. 6 hours is definitely nowhere near a long enough amount of time for that.

Also…for future use…you can fairly easily make a paint stand for auto bodies by bending a common wire coat hanger to sort of ‘spring’ against the interior sidewalls, holding it touch-free for both painting…and drying.

One less thing to worry about if nothing’s touching your hard-worked model.

Morrison’s Third Law of Modeling:

“There’s never enough time to do it right, but there’s always enough time to do it over”.

Bill

Oh wow… Hey, at least that’s enough time to wait for my polishing compound to arrive.

Or strip it and start over. Purple Power or Easy Off - I’m sure there’s youtube videos. No shame, I’ve stripped quite a few paint jobs as some times its easier to punt!!

Well, you’ve got two weeks for your compound. A week before repaint and another week before you get on it with compound.

Me too. Even now I occasionally try some new masking technique or something else that ends in a borked paintjob, and it ends up making more sense just to start over. I use 99% isopropyl alcohol and a cheap electric toothbrush to strip it down to bare plastic and start from scratch.

I’d have taken that right from the paint area to the purple pond, kasplash. With acrylic while still wet to the kitchen sink for a shower. And start over.