I am a recent returnee to the hobby, and am rapidly picking up techniques thanks almost exclusively to this forum and the generous members who share.
I have experimented with 1) oil washes(to be clear on terms, what I mean is highly diluted oil based paint over Tamiya acylic paints), pin washes (slightly darker oil wash placed around details rather than slopped all over), and “dot” filtering (dots of multi colored paint placed all over, then blended and almost wiped off, to give the paint more color depth, for lack of a better word.
I have seen various Mig “filters,” I like their pigments and washes. I was wondering, are the Mig filters dry or wet, and how does one use them I tried to look on the packages, but the instructions are scarce.
Anyone use these or just know how they are to be used?
I have that Toot saved, and have a pretty good memory. I checked the KT thread, but didn’t see them mentioned. I must have just skimmed over the filter use in your Sdkfz thread because I was so dazzled by your undercarriage work, as I’m really intrigued by mud and dirt right now, as I’m getting ready to slop up the Sherman, that is, if I ever get it to the point of paint, hopefully this weekend.
I’m trying to be a sponge at this point, but I’ve got so many threads saved, I need to go over the WIPS again.
Anyway, thanks Karl, that’s exactly what I was looking for. Does it leave tide marks? I’m guessing not because you specifically mention blotching it on.
Not sure what are “tide marks”, Bill, but all I can say is that it’s hard to really go wrong with these filters. They’re pretty easy to use. Just get a feel for them, and you’ll be cruisin’ in no time!
By “tide marks” I mean the visible demarcation between where the pigment or carrier liquid ends, and the underlying paint, you can actually see where the “splotch” ends because there is a very visible line. I have seen it on some builds, I think it’s the product of the drying process.
Well, it depends how haevy you apply them. The take a longer time to dry because of the carrier used, so you can always allay that with some careful brushwork.
Karl, your quick on the forums…we’ll have to put you on staff.
Bill, Karl has done an excellent job of describing the aspects and application of filters. (Thanks Doog!) Filters are really no more than a method to alter the tone of the base color. Think of them as you would if you were to view the world though color lenses. Hold up a green lense and the world has a greenish tint, red…etc.
Filters are most commonly used to make subtle variations of certain features…ie. panels, turret roof, etc., but can also be use more generally for overall “washes” if desired.
Tide marks are the scourge of the earth, and don’t forget it! Just kidding. They can, however, ruin a nice finish. The best way to avoid them is to use pure, or clean carriers…whether that be tuprentines, MIG Filters, thinners, water, etc.
(MIG Filters*)…“The take a longer time to dry because of the carrier used, so you can always allay that with some careful brushwork.”* That’s very true, good tip.
I hope we were able to help clarify this a little for you. Please, don’t hesitate to ask if you should have any more questions.
Another way to reduce “tide marks” is to mosten the entire area with clean thinners (is there a particular recommended thinner for Mig filters?) before applying the wash/filter so that there is no demarcation between wet and dry areas when applied.
I’m not sure what you would use in the case of an acrylic based wash (I don’t do acrylic washes), as clean water tends to bead rather than spread on the surface. [%-)]
MIG produces Thinner for Washes for that very purpose, that being a general pre-dampening of the surface prior to the filter or wash application. The most important factor is that you are using product without contaminants.
As per acrylic washes/filters…I do these all the time. If you put just a touch of liquid soap in your water it will break the surface tension and allow the filters/washes to flow freely. As an alternative, if you simply brush clean water over your surface, then allow to dry before proceeding it will help as well.