My query about resin kits (I am in the midst of my first, a 1/700 Victory ship) is this - how do you get the paint to cover up the super glue used to attach rails, etc?
I can’t seem to get the paint to do that despite numerous coats, so my model has little shiny patches all over it. Or is it the fact that I am using acrylics on the decks and horizontal surfaces, and enamels on the vertical surfaces (I had to go with what our one and only hobby shop had in stock).
I overcoat my whole ship with dull coat when its done, that usually takes care of the shinny glue and decals.
But this is a really small ship model, like 8 inches long. Won’t spraying dull coat on it gum up the railings and other tiny parts? I don’t have an air brush, so it’d be out of a can or bottle.
I don’t quite understand why the glue spots are visible through the paint. In any case, though, I find that one of the most useful tools for 1/700 ship modeling is a bottle of PolyScale clear flat. It’s as thin as water, and if applied with a small brush becomes virtually invisible within a minute or two.
The only potential problem is that if you’ve put any parts on the model with white glue, the clear flat may soften it up. In a case like that you’d probably be better off with a solvent-based flat finish.
If you don’t have access to PolyScale, I suspect the Testors Acryl clear flat is just about as good for the purpose. PolyScale just happens to be the one with which I’m familiar.
Looking at this article… is there much difference between super glue and cement? [X-)]
I somtimes perfer super-glue to the different types of polystyrene specific cement. I do appriciate the ability to unglue parts. [:D] Polystyrene bonded well with Testors cement is never going to come free, as the parts are in fact melted together.