I finally got back into modelling this year after a 25 year “hiatus”. I am almost finished my third model, a Panzer 4 G. As I have been progressing through these models, I have been slowly adding techniques that I have read about, and this time I was going to do a wash on my tank. After painting with various acrylics (Tamiya and Testors), I coated it with a clear coat acrylic before placing the decals. I have also read that this coat allows a wash to flow into recessess better. I bought a pre-made wash by Mig for acrylic paint, but I found it was too dark- so I thinned it with an enamel thinner. I applied this thin coat to the tank, and about an hour later, saw that it was covered in a white precipitate that mostly could be scraped off, and slightly improved with washes of plain thinner, but in the end I had to repaint it.
What did I do wrong? Perhaps it was the addition of the other thinner. I am now too scared to do a wash again! Perhaps this was a fluke. Your advice will be appreciated!
Like you, I too had a long layoff and am easing my way back into modeling. I tried Mig dark wash, and found it to be too dark for my use. I had no Mig thinner, so I set it aside.
Are you trying to achieve a dusty type or other outcome? I don’t know much, but I have recently used both a raw umber water soluble oil wash to age and highlight details. I just mixed it up and slathered it all over, and it highlighted details and aged the paint nicely. For dust, try raw umber/white and a spot of yellow for a “dusty” look that works well on a German 3 tone camo.
What’s your base color, and what exactly are you intending to use the wash to do?
Was the acrylic clear coat that you applied a flat coat or mixed with flat? Sometimes enamel thinner can cause the fine particles that create a flat finish to come out of suspension and create that white/crusty effect. If not that, then perhaps the enamel thinner you used caused a reaction with the MIG thinner, although I can’t really say if/why that would’ve happened.
I would assume(not always a good idea), that he used gloss since it was a clear coat for decals, in which case, the only thing I can think of is essentially what was already said, but I’ll say it in a less ambigous manner. The mig wash may be FOR acrylic paint, but wha you need to ascertain is what base does the wash use? Acrylic, watercolor, oil, enamel, etc. If it’s one of the first two, it shouldn’t have thinned at all, but it might have gave the illusion of thinning out, which would sometimes produce the results you ended up with in my experience. Oils can be thinned with plain enamel thinner, and that also will produce results like you described(LOL Ask me how I know this for certain haha). Sometimes enamel thinner can have adverse effects on acrylics. Especially if there is a flat coat underneath. Either way if it was a flat clear, then regardless of the thinner/wash combo, see WBill’s post regarding it.
Regarding clear for washes, generally, a gloss clear will allow the wash to flow into panel lines and around bolts and such, without spreading, and allows you to keep it more controlled and specific. Washes over a clear flat on the other hand will allow things to spread out more, and help to create filters or stains better.
I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago when I applied an enamel thinner-based black wash to a dark green DML BRDM-2. I had sealed my color coat (Tamiya Dark Green) with an acrylic flat coat, which I think was by Badger(?). The wash looked like it was going to be just right, but after about an hour, I saw that the whole thing had a “crackle” texture and was leeching white powder. I guess the acrylic clear coat hadn’t cured enough or something. I ended up repainting, too. How long did the acrylic clearcoat sit before you added the wash? I haven’t had the same problem occur since, because I always let my coats dry for 24 hours or more.
Hi, maxfax, post number 1,[#welcome]. All the advice given so far seems to read as good solid words. I have never heard of such problems with Mig products.
"After painting with various acrylics (Tamiya and Testors), I coated it with a clear coat acrylic before placing the decals. I have also read that this coat allows a wash to flow into recessess better. "
When you applied the clear for the decals how long did you allow it to dry?
"I bought a pre-made wash by Mig for acrylic paint, but I found it was too dark- so I thinned it with an enamel thinner. I applied this thin coat to the tank, and about an hour later, saw that it was covered in a white precipitate that mostly could be scraped off, and slightly improved with washes of plain thinner, but in the end I had to repaint it. "
Did you thoroughly mix/stir the mig wash? When I use these I tend use MIG thinners, mainly because they are odourless. It’s a pity that you didn’t photograph the damage.
theDoog recently done a King Tiger using MIG products and got a great result, try clicking here
/forums/1053435/ShowPost.aspx
or copy and paste, I’m on a MAC.
I hope this incident doesn’t discourage you from trying these products again as they are really great.
I’ve had to open another tab and read the responses from the othter guys, I think they are all heading in thet right direction and I’ m in agreement with them.
I have to agree with Terry on giving these washes another shot. Granted I don’t use them myself, but that’s only because I like to make my own, and they are tough to get. Even though I know the individual responsible for getting them here, to my way of thinking it’s too much trouble for the wash. However I have seen up close and in person, the spectacular results from mig products. Look for the user here called RickLawler, and check the link to his website. I know he uses the mig products, and being in the same local club as he is, I see him and his wonderful work, every time I can make it to a meeting or build night. All his stuff is top notch. So I know the mig stuff works great. I do plan on buying some pigments soon, although I have been working on a way(with some good success I might add) of making my own pigment powders, without grinding up pastels. I’m just a frugal kind of guy as of late.
I was using a gloss clear coat acrylic, and the Mig wash was enamel based. I would have assumed that an enamel thinner would have worked to thin the wash, but I believe it was the cause of the problem. Next time I will experiment on a piece of old model first.
As long as the acrylic is cured, it usually ok from the enamel thinners, BUT instead of making the assumption that your acrylic wasn’t cured and making you wait, I will add this now.
Sometimes enamel thinners are just a little TOO hot, or are of a little bit different makeup, and will eat into the acrylic. I would suggest, simply trying a different thinner, from a different manufacturer. I have had good luck using the hardware store stuff, about 90% of the time. I will try and remember when I head out to the area where I keep the chemicals to see the brand name on my can of thinner. I picked it up at Parkrose hardware which is a tru-value store, and it’s a yellow and white can. It seems to work ok, as I used it for wash over acrylic. I used it to thin oils though.