Hi everbody, this is my first post here at finescale, so I’m still learning all the little things. [:)] I was wondering, how do you make/where do you buy Cellucaly?? Any help would be great scince I am compleatly lost on the subject. Thanks,Jim
It’s available on-line and at just about any hobby shop that caters to model railroaders, or arts & craft stores, MM… Here, it comes in one pound and five pound bags… It’s basically just a pre-made papier mache’…
If you have to buy on-line, check about any of the e-hobby sites advertised here, or go to google for a bunch of places that sell it. There’s also a large number of “How tos” for using it…
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Celluclay&btnG=Google+Search&aq=f&oq=
Any problems, holler…
The instructions will tell you to mix with water. For our applications, try the following. Add a good dollop of white glue and enough cheap earth colored acrylic craft paint to precolor it, then throw in some textured turf material from the train landscapre section of the LHS. Add just enough water to make a thick slurry about the consistency of a thick, stick to your ribs, oatmeal.
I should add that I picked up a blender at a garage sale for 2.00 and I use it for mixing the stuff… Beats kneading and stirring, is super-fast, and blends all the glue and paint (I use Tempera Paint) into a smooth paste, almost like batter, that I can then spread evenly and cleanly, without the grey lumps… Even makes convincing water if you want to stay away from the weight of plaster.
I had to buy my own after I got my own “lumps” from usin’ Household 6’s food processor for groundwork… [:D]
Another note on using it. Make sure that the base you apply it to is both scored and roughed-up (to give it something to stick to) and water-proofed… If you use wood or any other porous material, seal it with a varnish of some sort or you can run into a warping problem.
Thanks Hans and ajlafleche,
I will have to see when I can go to Michaels or someplace (Michaels does sell it right?) I need it to start on my upcoming Panzer IV diorama. Thanks again for the help!! As I told you before, I was just lost. Jim
Michaels sells it, I just picked up a 1lb bag this weekend from them.
Here is another source for celluclay, it’s not listed on his site so you may need to ask. I purchase most all my supplies from here at very good prices.
The stuff I get is called Claycrete by Amaco…same stuff in a 1 pound bag that should last you a VERY long time.
I also have a section on this site for basic weathering…check it out !
OK, cool, thanks guys! Waikong, Panzer_Blitz you guys both have very cool websites. Neat info, and Panzer_Blitz, I love those trees!! and I’ll try to hit Michaels this weekend! Jim
HEY! Can you apply this over styrofoam?
doc
it does not react to the foam so it should be ok…
Really? that’s cool! What would be the best base to lay celluclay on. Also, about how long does it take for celluclay to dry?? Thanks, Jim
Will cellucaly hold it’s shape if I put push shapes into it? Thanks, Jim
You can apply the celluclay, or claycrete material to almost anything. But on a very smooth surface like styrene you may need to rough the surface up a little bit to give the glue something to hold onto.
Thin wood may be a problem as the material is very wet, and it may tend to warp the wood as it drys.
The drying time is usually over night…say a good 6-8 hours.
I’ve never tried to imprint a shape into this stuff, but it should work as long as you use some type of coating (light oil maybe?) on the part you want to use to keep it from sticking to the celluclay.
I’m not real sure about styrofoam Doc, never tried that, but it might work if the openings between the styrofoam balls is large enough to give the celluclay something to hold onto
If you add the white glue that ajlafleche mentioned, you should have no problem with the celuclay adhereing. You can improve this by making some holes in the styrofam and pushing the celuclay into the holes that will act as anchors. Some toothpicks stuck into the foam and cut flush with the top of the layer of celuclay will also act as an anchor.
Form most of your terrain feature with the foam. Use a shallow layer of celuclay and you’ll get a faster drying time, less chance of the celuclay pulling up or warping and use less material in the coverage. Celuclay warps because one side dries faster than the other. The result is that the topside, drying faster than the underside, contracts and pulls the underside up. The thinner layer of celuclay allows a more even drying.
Celuclay can hold its shape and can be manipulated into some very interesting and complex forms. But, as any soft sculpting media, the longer or taller the piece, the more subject to gravity it becomes and may have to be stabilized with an armature.
I mix my celuclay with white glue and a portion of paster of paris. Throw in any ground detrius like sand, small pebbles or kitty litter, add my water and any pigment and mix it up to a heavy oatmeal consistency. I smooth out any thing that needs smoothing with a spoon or finger dipped in water. You can use this to make mud on wheels or tracks, water, terrain, stucco etc.
Click here for a groundwork tutorial I did using Celluclay and styrofoam.
Sweet, thanks guys, the tutorial was good! thanks again for all your help guys. It was great! Jim
This little tutorial might help you;
/forums/822767/ShowPost.aspx
Nice tutorial Al…gives me another use for the stuff since I have an entire bag full !
You guys really do some nice work !
Jerry
Keep in mind that, if you mix up too much, it keeps for long time in a zip-lock bag. Squeeze as much air out as you can, though… It’ll eventually mold, but you CAN freeze it as well…