Steve, the figures look great. I would try to spray them with flat MM. Then when really dried out I would take a cloth like an old T-shirt and rub the hands and face a bit to buff them up a touch to give them a bit of life over the flat coat.
BK
Humbrol Satin or Matt coats airbrushed on will take care of that. The Satin stuff gives off that reflective sheen only at certain lighting angles, and the Matt coat is dead flat. The best I have used yet. But watch your thinning ratio or it can start doing the foggy whitish coat if not thinned enough.
Thanks Stick and BK, Iāll see which one I can get here before going to the internet.
Another technique that works for me is thinning testorās dull coat with 20% laquer thinner. it produces a dead flat finish.
Thanks Jay Jay. If I canāt find the paint at our local HT then Iāll give that a try.
I applied the Silly Putty to the 202 for the camo. It made it look like it had the measles. Next will be the underwing grey.
Steve
A pox on your Folgore!
That was a clever idea for the camo pattern. A bit hard lined, but effective.
i think youāre on the right track with your figures. Youāve got good blocking, but the skin tones look a bit washed out.
Iām betting the camera had a lot to do with that. How are they looking now that youāve done more work on them? 
Fantastic idea on the camo. Stunning!
Toshi
Mike, two things. The skin tones are a little washed out and youāre right about the hard lines. My Badger 105 has never really made very good lines but Iām going to go back and try to soften them some.
About the skin tone, this is where I go wrong with figures. Iāll darken the paint some to see if that works.
Try a wash of Burnt Sienna over the skin areas to change the tone. Use oils or enamels, and not acrylics. A little goes a long way.
I added some Burnt Sienna and that added some color. Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber seem to be the miracle paint.
I softened the camo edges on the 202 and worked on the guys. I think Iām finished with the guys, i just need to dull them down.
I have pictures but I canāt get my computer to load Crome or Edge and boot up correctly. I can get them to come up and even load a page but they lock up shortly after that. Forget about loading 2 websites at the same time. Iām not sure what to do about this.
Iām posting on my phone for now.
Yes, for figures, the Siennas and Umbers, both raw and burnt, are most useful colors. Especially as washes to create various effects. Top that off with a little dry brushing and smaller scale figures can really come alive.
I second that. My technique is a little more advanced than that (I like to apply tones like makeup lol) but it will serve you well.
Just donāt forget the eyebrows. Faces tend to look a little wierd without them lol.
A sharpened pencil will work well after a dullcote.
I canāt wait to see the results!
Here are the promised pictures. I have to load them at work since my laptop is still giving me fits and may need to go to the shop.
What would be suggested for the goggle lenses? Silver just does not look right.
Steve
Hey Steve great job there on the fighter and the figures!
You might try a very dark gun metal like metallic for the lenses with a tiny spot of silver near the top to give the impression of sun reflecting off them and see how you like it.
Suggestion for the goggle lenses, drill them out, paint the area in a color to match the sorrounding area (not the frames), and then put a drop of your favorite clear in there, as you might for an instrument lens.
Ooooo, I like that!!
Most goggles have metal frame for the lens, just do a highlight around the edge before you do the clear.
Awesome! Figures look great too. Try Testorās dull coat for dead flat. For the googles, I usually paint them black then drybrush the frames silver. A drop of gloss on the lenses to simulate glassā¦