So I read soemwhere that CA glue will eventually eat away at rigging line…
Is that true?
Over time will it totally disintegrate it, or just make it weak? Or is that just a bunch of malarkey? And if it IS true, is Diluted Elmer’s the safe way to go? Or something else? I like using thin CA for setting rigging knots because it sets so quickly, but if my model will fall apart in a couple of years, I suppose I’d better use something else…
Advice, experiences, and suggestions welcome!
I use ELMERS or AILEENS thick glue.It seems to hold up well over time and I have NOT had to re-rig anything. TANKER-builder
I’ve got a couple of ship models on which I used CA fairly extensively in the rigging. I finished one of them in 1979, and the other in 1983. Both of them (largely because they’ve been kept in plexiglas cases) look as good as new.
I generally used tiny drops of Elmer’s or Aileen’s (which is pretty much the same thing, but thicker) to secure knots, though. It shrinks a little as it dries, and you can always get it loose, if necessary, by putting a drop of water on it.
I’ve used CA before and have never had any issues. What I use mostly is called TAC Glue. It’s kind of like a stronger version of Elmer’s glue.
Phil
Thanks, guys!
What are you using the glue for? Is it just to secure knots so they will remain tied, or are you using it where the thread will be in considerable tension, gluing the thread to structure?
If just to secure knots, I use thinned white glue. Plenty strong enough to hold the knot, much cheaper than CA. I typically thin 1:1. Thinning it eliminates big bumps where glue is- it soaks into thread better.
Hi Don-
I’ve been using CA pretty much on all my knots for rigging…I like it because it absorbs quickly, and dries quickly.
But, I have noticed it discolors the thread somewhat (makes it look wett, and it also makes the thread super-stiff where the glue is applied (so I must be careful to have the thread in it’s desired shape/angle/whatever when I glue it). And then I recently read that CA will eat the thread. It sounds as if no one here has had any trouble with that last issue, so I guess I’m safe.
But, I think I will try using diluted Elmer’s…it might be easier to use and apply, compared to my technique for using CA:
I take a small square of glossy cardboard (like a cereal box panel, cut into 2" pieces) and fold one end up like a small lip and lean a toothpick on it…and I put a few drops of thin CA in a puddle on the middle of the square.
When I tie a knot, I’ll grab the toothpick, dab it into the glue, and touch it to the knot…this way, I only use a smidgeon at a time, and the glue is drawn up into the fibers of the thread, and sets instantly.
Then I can move on to my my next line, without having to worry about accidentally tugging the one I just secured.
One bit of difficutly with my technique is that after several minutes, the CA on my cardboard square begins to congeal, and get goopy. Then it’s harder to dab onto my toothpick, and harder to apply. SO I have to place a few more drops.
I think if I used Diluted Elmer’s instead, it would sit for longer on the bench without getting thickened up or drying out.
Mr. Stauffer makes an excellent point. I wouldn’t recomment white glue for any thread-to-plastic joint that’s going to be subjected to much stress.
Dave also makes a good point: CA changes the color of the thread and stiffens it. There’s one application in which the latter is an advantage. When I start to set up a piece of rigging that has to run through holes (in things like blocks and deadeyes), the first thing I do is put a drop of CA on the end of it. A few seconds later I can chop the stiffened end of the line off at an angle. Built-in needle.
Unless it is for plastic or monofilament, I no longer use CA. Usually use white glue for non stress areas and fly tying head cement for high stress / tension knots. All the glues mentioned are good, its just I have found the head cement to be easier to use through a hypo applicator.
Hi, I build ships in bottles. The joins are always thread to wood and I use clear nail polish. It doesn’t take a lot and soaks into the thread well. It is also easy to remove, at least from wood, in the event of an error. I have a gerat deal of experience with that.
Do you have a web site? I am fascinated by ships in bottles.
I have some photos on the forum below, under the ship-in-bottle section.
“Hi, I build ships in bottles. The joins are always thread to wood and I use clear nail polish. It doesn’t take a lot and soaks into the thread well. It is also easy to remove, at least from wood, in the event of an error. I have a gerat deal of experience with that.”
I tried it and it works good. In fact, looking through my wife’s nail polish collection, she has “primer” that dries flat and not glossy.