I’m trying to hone my ability to build ships in 1/350 scale. I’ve built one (Academy USS Indianapolis) and am currently building a Gato Class sub. I’ve got Tamiya’s 350th Big E in my stash (still acquiring all the PE and decals to build it the way I want) and I’m trying to build some ships to get better at maritime subjects before I tackle that kit (I’ve been looking forward to building it since I was a kid). I’d like to build a big one (battleship, heavy cruiser, carrier - escort or otherwise, or even maybe an AEGIS destroyer) to get some builds under my belt. I’d like to not break the bank on a bunch of PE, etc. because I’m not that solid with ships yet and I’d prefer not to spend a ton until I’m more confident.
With all that in mind, can anyone recommend a 350th scale kit that is really good OOB (includes some PE rails, maybe some parts that could be improved with some minor scratchbuilding, etc. that I can practice on) that will end up pretty accurate without major corrections? Right now I’m thinking about the Trumpeter USS Momsen or the Trumpeter USS Texas (I know the hull is messed up, so I’m hesitant on that one). Any suggestions you guys could give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Look at some of the Academy “Deluxe Edition” 1/350 ships such as the Perry Class Frigate, Graf Spee, or Warspite. They come with certain AM included and run around the cost of Trumpeter ships. The Graf Spee is a real good “learner’s kit” in its’ basic form. Another couple of good 1/350 ship kits are the Tamiya USS Fletcher and Trumpeter USS England. And Revell Germany 1/350 Type VII U-Boats are real fun little kits OOB.
As you have already built the Indy and such I’ll just tell you that I just recently did build the Fletcher ,as Stik listed, and it was a good kit, no PE. But I am working on a 1/350 U-176 which does come with PE, no convoluted configurations but challenging enough ( for me) to get a grip on dealing with PE.
As has been mentioned, the Academy Premium kits are pretty nice. I am currently building their Graf Spee and it kinda has what you are asking for. So far the fit has been excellent for me, it comes with a sizable fret of etch, some anchor chain, dry transfers for the keel markings, and a very nice looking wood deck. There is still room for improvement in certain areas if you wish to do so. I think I got mine for right at $100 and in my opinion it’s a pretty good deal.
Any 1/350 is useful except for Lindberg offerings. In my opinion, the difference between a model and toy is adding the photo-etch brass and paint. You can work on those skills even with older kits and kits of any size.
I think most 1/350 kits of cruiser size and larger are pricey to experiment on. Recommend using cheaper kits which have pe sets to sharpen skills. Like the indomitable Revell Arizona in 1/426 etc.
I would suggest the 1/350 Fletcher, by I think Hasegawa or Tamiya .I forget which .It’s a good little kit and the P.E. necessary isn’t that expensive or convoluted to handle .Or the Dragon line of destroyers . T.B.
I think I’m gonna try the graf spree. Looks like a pretty solid kit without any additions. The Fletcher is also on my list. My local hobby shop can get the PE set for the same cost as GMM and the kit is really cheap for a 350th scale. I really wish they’d do the Johnston or at least include the right bridge to convert it over. How has no one started producing that kit yet? The story of Taffy 3 is one of the best stories in the history of naval warfare!
I picked up the AFV Club Gato and am currently giving it a try. I’ve surprised myself with how well I’ve done the PE that I’ve tried so far. The railings are where I struggle and my Indy shows it. That Academy Indy kit is really good - especially with the AM works crane and radars. I’m going to give that one to my nephew eventually and try it again - one of my favorite ships of the second World War.
Your comment about PE is right on. It really makes a difference - especially in ships but also in aircraft. I recently tried a Eduard PE cockpit set for the first time and loved it. The hardest part was mixing the chromate to match the pre-colored set. I’d really like to try the Hasegawa Gambier Bay but from what I understand the PE that comes with it is insane. Thats on my list too after the Enterprise and USS New Jersey are under my belt.
I build armor too and Dragon makes them some fine kits. I wouldn’t mind taking a whack at their LCS kit (Bronco I think…). Fletcher is definitely a good call and will be up next after I finish the 4 projects on my bench right now.
I have this weird thing where I hate building subjects that may have killed an allied serviceman. I know its just a model and its really about the appreciation of the subject and its engineering but its always weirded me out to have an enemy plane/ship/tank on display in my home. I’ve had a dragon panzer tank in my cart on amazon a few times and have never brought myself to pull the trigger. That being said, that kit looks incredible and once i get over it I’d definitely like to build it.
So the gato isn’t quite done, but I started clearcoating this weekend and hope to start weathering on Monday. I’m going to use an AK Interactive Rust Streaks pot to add some rust effects, and then maybe add some other colors just to add complexity (I need to load up on some of the AK Interactive weathering paints for ships). The PE rigging that was included got creased while I was removing it from the sprue, so I had to scratch build some rigging out of stretched sprue - it’s not entirely accurate but it looks fairly good for having to put it together myself.
I also have a stupid question: on World War II subs, would they have dove with the flags raised or removed them as part of the dive rigging? (The flag isn’t supposed to touch the ground, but I’m not sure about the rules regarding salt water…) I want to build her as she looked while rigged for dive, and I hate the way the decal flags look so for now I left them off.
Also, I couldn’t find any record of the Albacore wearing MS-9 or MS-32 (snyder and short has no data for her), and I read somewhere that most were painted black all over and had all numbers removed when put out to sea so I went with that. I added some slight chipping with aluminum paint and a sponge to the hull, propeller shafts, diving planes, and rudder. I tried to stay with areas that would likely get beat up. She’s really glossy right now but I’ll set the paint back to flat after all the weathering is done.
If someone knows the answer to the flag question I’d appreciate it and any other suggestions for improving my work so far are most welcomed. Thanks guys!
