I have been building models for awhile and generally speaking I paint the parts on the sprue, then glue them together and touch up the sprue connection marks. I have noticed sometimes that the paint seems to affect the bonding of the parts, but generally speaking I don’t have too many issues. I hand paint everything (I just ordered an airbrush) and the “paint then glue” is the best way for me to do that since its hard sometimes to get paint where I need it with the bristles when everything is glued together. I was just wondering, from the more experienced modelers, is there a best way?
Yes- do not follow a general rule. Each kit has its own problems, and needs to be analyzed before starting the build. Problem with painting each part first is that you then leave some seams unfilled and sanded. This is a big problem with aircraft. You can do cars fairly well this way except for kits with multi-piece bodies. So each kit, regardless of genre, needs to have a plan of work put in mind.
Kit instructions do not help, since most mfgs seem to believe that no one paints their kits anyway.
I use a combination of both. Some parts are best painted on the sprues, with touch up after removal & clean up, while others are best painted after gluing into sub assemblies. Using CA or Acrylic glues such as gator glue is a consideration when gluing pre painted parts together. As opposed to paint scraping for traditional model glues & cements.
What is CA? I use testor’s model glue and always have since I don’t have a lot of options for hobby stores in the places I’ve lived the last 7 yrs.
I use a combination of both, depending on the kit and my mood. When gluing painted parts, I use CA or acrylic glues. I don’t want to use my time and energy on paint scraping.
Depends,on armor I glue almost everthing except wheels,tracks,and antennas then paint.
Always glue then paint whenever possible. It allows for a much cleaner assembly. Then there’s no messing around with scraping glue off or doing touch ups.
I never buy my CA glue at the hobby shop anyway- they don’t carry the brand I prefer- Loctite. I use both the gel and the regular (thin). I usually use the gel, it does not require a perfectly smooth joint, it will fill small gaps. I only occasionally use the thin for when I have a really tight fitting joint and want a quick bond. Actually, the slower bonding time of the gel stuff is an asset, in my mind.
I paint detail on sprues as the sprues give me “an extra set of hands” and are generally a little more stable.
Otherwise, I paint after gluing.
CA is super glue / cyanoacrylate.
As you’ve probably noticed now by the responses to your post, there’s no one way, or a “right” way and a “wrong” way, except to say that whatever works is right, and whatever makes you throw the model against the wall is wrong.
I’ll paint things before assembly, if it makes sense, like painting the instrument panel before installing it, painting a tank’s interior before closing up the hull, but I’ll paint the exterior of an airplane after assembling the fuselage and wings. I find it easier to deal with seams by doing it that way.
Painting a figure, I’ll paint things before attaching, if it’s easier to get to them at that stage, but otherwise, I’ll paint the figure from the inside out, flesh areas first, then general uniform or clothing, and then equipment.
And yes, some things I paint on the sprues, too, occasionally, but I find generally that most things are better painted once they’re removed from the sprues and at least partially assembled, because if I leave them on the sprues, I still have to clean up the sprue gates.
Another vote for “it depends”. When I do paint before assembly I learned the hard way that its a must to clean off the paint from surfaces that will be glued. I use a hobby knife, sanding stick, or a quick/delicate swab with a q-tip moistened with acetone.
I also sometimes paint small parts on the sprue. I then touch up the area where the sprue attaches by using a small brush at the points where I cut the part from the sprue. Very small daubs with a brush usually look okay, especially like engine or cockpit details.
Engines on air-cooled radial engined planes present a problem. You really need to paint them before installing, but then the engine is open to the spray paint when painting. So you need to cover the engine with masking tape (carefully), paper toweling, or a cardboard disk.
Don,
I can certainly attest to that. That AMT 2009 Corvette Coupe that I am working on has zero paint instructions. All it has is a list of colors to use.
Plus, looking at the interior section there are TERIBBLE gaps where the door panels and the sitting area meet.
G-J,
For the same reason as you, I also paint on the sprue, or if the part is too small I’ll use the sprue to clamp to in my third hand.
Hello ;
I usually paint , then glue .It’s worked for over fifty five years for me . T.B.
I find that often I assemble “sub-assemblies” paint them and them assemble then painted sub-assemblies together.
Do you fill and sand seams after final gluing?
like earlier guy said.no job is ever the same.some kits you can assemble in one go and paint.others you paint parts before they are glued.just make sure you scrape off any paint where it is to be glued as it won’t stick very well.there are no set ways to model some do make your life easier.seaming is only effective when the parts are securly glued together.make sure when you seam even if you have glued to make sure there is no way the pieces can move.otherwise you will be pulling your hair out wondering why there are still gaps.
You guys have said it all…there is no right or wrong way, but what works for you and the situation.
I tend to be a klutz so I paint as little as possible before assembly, except for engines, interior stuff, crew, and things like that.
For glues I use the whole gambit…CA both thick and thin, tube cement, two part epoxy, various iquids like micro-weld, and MEK. Just depends on what I’m doing and to an extent my mood.
I also use a variety of instruments to apply glue. Tooth picks, needles with the top of the “eye” cut off (these work nice with both CA and accelorator), long pins, those glass tubes with a needle on the end (not my favorite).
I read about this one long ago, use a single edged razor blade, but it in the joint, apply glue along the blade, the capillary action and gravity moves it into the seam. Works nice…try it.
You can also put your CA in the fridge to keep it usable longer.
See ya !