well i have been using model master liquid cement in the little black bottle with the needle tip, and every time someone mentioned liquid glue, i thought that this was the same stuff. today at my LHS i bought some plastruct bondene, and this stuff is like oranges and apples. i completly fell in love with this. what have i been missing? i was thinking that the little brush was stupid, because why would you want to slather glue all over your model, the brush isn’t exactly tiny. but after using this stuff, i am blown away. it is real thin like water, it capilates great, and it dries quite quick. amazing! i feel like i just invented the wheel!! question to all you guys that use similar glues: since it dries real quick, almost like alcohol, will it evaporate fast if the top is open for a long time? i notice that i have to re-cap my liquid accelarator otherwise in just a little bit of time, i’ll be missing half of the bottle.
I use a similar glue I think to what you are describing: Tenax 7R…
i think so manny. is that the brand name? because i looked for it, and all they had was plastruct, and pro-weld, which are basically the same thing. but does this stuff evaporate fast if the cap is not sealed after every application?
Liquid glues are highly “volatile” meaning they will evaporate (and get you high if not properly ventilated in the process, not a good thing at all) quickly if exposed to the open air. The larger the bottle’s mouth, the quicker it evaporates.
I use Testor’s Liquid Cement because it’s not quite as volatile but don’t use the supplied brush as it tends to “flood” too much glue at a time. Be careful using any liquid glue, it will wick right under your fingers too if you aren’t careful, producing nice finger-print replicas in the process. [(-D] Liquid glue also has limitations for gluing large surfaces unless you can get them clamped firmly together, otherwise it has a tendency to evaporate before you can get the bond set. All liquid glues are “welding” solvents and some, like Tenax, can be more potent than others, so use it with care.
Having said all that, liquid glue is a great and indispensible tool in the arsenal for styrene kits IMHO. Makes for much cleaner joins and faster assembly.
thanks wbill. i used cement for a long time, and i just stumbled upon the “liquid” glue. so far it has been nothing but miracles, and i doubt that i will go back to the cement unless i have to. i like the fact that i can just dab a corner, and it spreads along the joint by itself, i don’t have to manually apply it to the whole lip myself. and the fact that it dries fast, and evaporates, so its dosen’t leave any glue puddles like the cement. and i think your a little too late on the advice for the glue wicking under the fingers leaving beautiful 1:1 fingerprints. [(-D]
Fast evaporation is the main cause of the “what the… ?” factor when one first starts using liquid cements using the same technique as they would with traditional tube cement. eg.
- Apply glue to part with supplied brush
- Look at bench to see where the jar of liquid cement is, and put the cap/brush back on the jar
- Hold the parts together
- Watch the parts fall apart
- “What the…??”
Once you get used to it though, you never want to go back to tube cement. Your Testors ModelMaster in the black bottle with needle applicator is somewhere in between “pure solvent” cement and tube cement, so it does still contain a small amount of resin, which does add strength to the bond.
…the “what the…?” factor will go away quickly once you realize the best way to use it is to first join the two parts with your fingers holding them, THEN apply the glue w/ a small brush (I use paintbrushes) to the join line and let capillary action draw the glue in and “weld” the parts together…makes tube glue all but obsolete…
once again, too late. haha. i’m finding all this out by trial and error. but i do have to agree with you phil, i don’t want to go back to cement. this stuff has got my jaw dropping, asking myself why i didn’t know about this stuff earlier. i probablu still will use the cement from time to time, but i like the way this liquid glue is working out. i find that i can also apply a thin layer of it over the joint after it has cured, and it fills in minute seams as a decent filler. thanks for all the help guys.
Having seen some of your builds in person, Chris, I never guessed you hadn’t been on the Liquid Glue Bandwagon the whole time!
But now that you are… welcome!
I use the three-type combo: Tenax, CA and the goopy tube stuff. Mostly the first two, but I will put a pin drop of tube cement under a small peice that I want to be able to reposition for a few seconds. Then I hit it with Tenax. My room can be a highly toxic and explosive place. I come out every thirty minutes or so with the munchies and a desire to talk to the plants.[:D]
discoving Liquid glue was one of my greatest modeling moments things have never been the same since, i use Testors plastic cement “its not the devil and i likes it momma” (in my best Adam sandler “waterboy” impression)
hi guys[:)]–heya chris[:)]-- I use tenax 7R for almost everything-- but I have been using testors ‘tube glue’ when I need a slow set-up time-- but it is way to thick for most stuff – what is the ‘BEST’ SLOW drying liquid cement?-- thanks,-- tread[8D]
Wow, Chris–I never woulda guessed that you were a “Liquid Virgin” before today! [:X][(-D]
If you really want to “get versatile”, you should get several different types of liquid glue. I have four different types in my drawers for different applications.
Tenax-R7 is the fastest acting, like, within seconds it bonds and dries FAST!. But it’s not the best for doing indy-link tracks cuz it doesn’t give you enough time to work with the track lengths. It’s also not great for times when you specificaly WANT the plastic to ooze/melt a little, to fill the seam, like on a gun tube–so you can then file it with a nail file 'til smooth…I use it for parts that are easily placed and don’t have to be fiddled into place.
The next kind is that stuff you got I think; the bottle I have is called “Plastruct Plastic Weld”–a nice strong bond and just about perfect working time for most parts–sometimes I just use it for 90% of the build. The “Lemony” smelling variant seems to be A slightly weaker and slower variant of it.
And then there’s TESTOR’S liquid glue. A slow setting time, great for doing indy tracks and gun barrels, or parts that need to be “squeezed” a bit to fill the seam. This stuff also works EXCELLENTLY to clean dried acrylic off of airbrush needles and tips! Use it to thin Squadron’s White and/or Green putty. You can squueze a half tube into a half bottle of it to make a nice soupy putty, good for fiiling minor seams.
One more thing–the “brushes” that come on the tops of the glue bottles are TOO THICK! You’ll be much happier if you cut at least half of he bristles off the brush with your Exacto knife–you’ll have much less glue going onto the model, which can result in some nasty ruination of parts and unwanted blemishes. Better yet, get a package of those three-to-a-pack 4-5 inch cheap white “paint Brushes” from Testors, and cut each one to a different thickness; that way you have a different thickness for different applications and uses!
thanks doog. i had one of those “what the…?” problems with using a “brush” with liquid glue. well i used a brush on the liquid cement. like i said i thought this was all the same stuff. lets just say that my bristles weren’t as soft anymore, lol. i have to agree with you about the brush being a tad bit too big, but at least it dosen’t leave glue puddles like the cement does. i will continue to use the cement to fill gaps, gluing indies, or need more working time as you stated, but this stuff is amazing. i wish i could find the tenax-R7. i have plastruct bondene, and i think it is pretty much the same stuff. not real sure how fast the drying time is, but its fast enough.
Chris, you can order the Tenax stuff online from many places; Squadron’s got it. I can’t say I’d recomend using the tube glue at all–to be honest, it’s really kinda “old technology”, and if it doesn’t actually “weld” the plastic, in time (like, years) the glue will chemically dry out and become brittle, and actually break apart if your model encounters any stress or bumps. I’ve actually had my earliest models–Panthers and Tigers–have their sprockets and idler wheels come off from the tension of the rubber band tracks.
Get some Testors liquid for the indys and leave the tube glue for beginners…
sorry doog, maybe i confused you. i don’t use the tube glue. i have the model master liquid cement that comes in a black bottle with a syringe needle. unless i am completly wrong, and that is the same stuff as the tube glue, but i think it does weld the plastic, and i can push out some of the glue/plastic like you were saying to fill the gap, then just sand it off later. but for right now i am completly in love with the liquid glue. i will have to look for the testors liquid next time i go to the LHS. just to clarify, this is the model master cement i have
and thsi is the liquid glue i just bought.
YUP! Good stuff!
I’ve never used the black bottle, but if it’s “liquid”, then it’s certainly better than the tube junk!
I’ll be expecting a step up in your always-improving skills now Chris![tup] [(-D]
HAHA, ok, i have to improve my skills now. with this glue, i’ll be able to win the IPMS Nationals. lol!! thanks for the help doog, and i’ll be on the look out for the testors liquid glue. and you said that that stuff will dry slow enough for indies? because i was just going to use the cement for the indies, but if you say that the testors is good for them, i’ll make the switch.
Well Roo, I guess the best I can say is just try what ya got for now, and if you don’t like the working time you can try the Testor’s stuff. That stuff you have might be perfect?..
actually the working time is rather slow for my taste. i have to wait about 30 minutes before i can work the tracks with out them falling apart, and sometimes they still do. i’ll keep my eye open for the testors, there is another LHS close by, i might look there. thanks doog