Hi all. Astounded that a little can of clear gloss coat is running $12 to $15. I use it on my 1/48 aircraft before applying decals. Any other suggestions that is more cost friendly? I find the coat helps give a better surface to apply the decals as well as protects the paint underneath. thanks!
Hi Bob! Welcome to the Forums. Glad to have you aboard.
I think you will find the answer to your question if you post it in the Paint section of the Forums.
Stay safe.
Jim [cptn]
I got a couple of things that I use,this stuff I just started with:
AK Interactive Intermediate Gauzy Agent Shine Enhancer
Yea,about $10.00 a bottle but airbrushing it goes a long way.
I also used Alclad Aqua Gloss,around the same price goes stuff too.
Some use a product called Future,it’s for floors but some find it useful,not me,there is a newer equivalent but I’m not familiar with it.
!https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTlHnPDfO29nAukewMhJMyGxQfrXYAysbVLKA&usqp=CAU
I’m almost 73.
Been modeling since I was 6-7.
This works just as good if not better than Future.
No thinning required and 27 fl. oz lasts darn near forever.
Be sure the wording is exactly as shown on the bottle.
Quick Shine at WALMART
Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish, 27 fl. oz., Cleaner & Polish
$6.87 -tax
…Good nite
I use Future, which is now out of production. It’s a clear acrylic floor coating. It’s much like Disastermaster describes Quick Shine. It could be applied by hand or by airbrushing, with no thinning, though it could be thinned, too. It’s self-leveling, and if you make a mistake, you could clean it with a weak ammonia solution. It was used as you use your gloss medium, as a base for decaling (smooth surface reduces the chance of silvering). It was used to dip clear parts, like canopies, to fill the tiny scratches and other imperfections in the surface that reduce the parts’ clarity. I use it on my toy soldiers, too, which I paint with matte colors, for a traditional gloss finish.
But since it’s out of production, you’re better off trying Quick Shine, like DM suggests.
Here is a YouTube video from modeler Jon Bius, describing switching from Future to QuickShine. It sounds like it produces the same or very similar results:
https://youtu.be/PVA_E1vd_Yo?si=CxKWvIBkX9Tk2yTE
When my bottle of Future finally runs out, I’m going to try QuickShine and see. And if it’s not that great for use with models, I can still use it on the floor.
I’m thinking the first thing we should ask is whether or not you have an airbrush. If not, there aren’t really many options in spray cans that aren’t going to have a similarly high cost. Having an airbrush is going to be the best way to take advantage of the alternative suggestions that have already been made, and I’m with Tojo…Future is for floors. The AK Gauzy he mentions is excellent, and with an airbrush, the cost of a bottle goes much further because you’re not putting 80% of it into the air like you are with a rattle can. I use AK Gauzy for some things, such as metallic paints that react badly to having lacquers sprayed on them. For everything else, I’m using MRPs clear lacquers.
The baron is right 
If you do or don’t have an airbrush, check out that vid.
I recommend the medium decoupage varnish in the glossy version, it is a top quality varnish that does not yellow over time. You can also use it as a paper adhesive and as a sealer for foams.
Squadron has Tamiya TS-13 for $8.33/can. https://squadron.com/search-result/?search_query=clear+lacquer+spray
I use an airbrush and get a bottle for $2.90 that lasts for months. If you afford an airbrush, I would definitely look into one.
I’m sorry but I can’t understand why people use floor products on scale models when there are so many clearcoat paint options out there.
If you have an airbrush, buy clearcoat in the little bottles. Tamiya sells a gloss clear in a 23ml bottle for like $6. And sine it is not thinned for airbrushing, when you thin it 1:1 with lacquer thinner you get double the amount. Plenty of clear to cover your model.
Or you can buy a huge spray can of Rustoleum clear for $8. This spray can is HUGE and would be more than enough to do several models. The problem with this is you have to be careful not to apply too much. It comes out fast so you have to keep that can moving in order to control application.
Personally my favorite clearcoat is Mr Super Clear from Mr Hobby. I have an airbrush and I still use this stuff in a spraycan. It is that good. Problem is it is $15 per can.
A primary consideration when picking a gloss or flat clear product is what subsequent types of materials you will be applying over it.
Test tomake sure that whatever weathering brew you put on the clear coat does not dissolve or affect it.
Bill
So, I may have gone a little overboard myself. I am really trying to concentrate on the finish of this build by applying things I’ve learned. The hardest lesson for me is when to leave good enough alone. Stop me if you heard this one before. Everything up to base coat went good. I used practically an entire can of Mr. Super Clear an was afraid the clear coat was still not heavy/thick enough to cover the seams of paint left from my taping job. So I bought a can of 2K after hearing the praise. That went pretty good however I was unaware the can had a 48 hour shelf life. I used what I could in that time frame and was impressed by the gloss. I SHOULD HAVE LEFT IT ALONE. I was still afraid of the paint bumps along the side of the stripes. So I layered on some Future polish. I don’t think the lacquer liked that. It created “creases” in the clear coat.
Will wet sanding save me? I’m scared of wet sanding.
One can ofMr Super Clear is enough for 2 or 3 cars. If you used nearly a whole can on one car you have way over done it.
I recommend you let that car body sit for 2-3 weeks. Yes weeks. You applied so much clear you need to let it fully cure. Then once you let it sit, CAREFULLY wet sand it with 1500 grit to remove some of the excess clearcoat.
Once you do that it might feel ever so slightly tack again. If it does, let it cure again for another week. Then polish it out.
For polishing I wet sand with 3000, then 5000, and then 8000 grit. Then I use rubbing compound, then poliching compound, and then wax.
When sanding don’t apply much pressure, let the paper do the work.
Thanks for the encouragement. I may be too far off the rails.
Don’t give up. Let the body sit in some Castrol Super Clean for a day and remove the paint. Then try it again.
Or buy another copy of the kit and use that body. I do this sometimes when I don’t want to deal with stripping paint.
If you are at a point where you can start over, let me know and I can give you some help with how to apply Mr Super Clear. I have a process that works very well.
Not giving up yet. I’ve taken it down with 1000 grit for the nasty stuff. Trying not to get down to the stripes or decals.
(The site is not letting me post pics. Keeps opening a new window.)
CA