Just out of curiousity, I was wondering what the concensus is now as to “molded on” zim. Since some products have been released, it would be interesting to get some opinions.
For those of us that have been making our own for some time, I was wondering if the “new” molded on products are going to put a dent in milliput sales or retire the hot iron?, for me personally, I’ll continue to make my own, as I get great satisfaction out of it.
Has Atak and Cavalier felt any pain as to the demand for resin zim?
I generally apply it myself. I have used the cavalier, but I think it’s just about as much effort without the satisfaction. I recently purchased the new C-H Stug III with the waffle pattern zim. I’ve read somewhere there were issues on some items being covered or something like that, I’m not a rivet counter. It looked pretty good to me but I haven’t started the kit. I’ve never tried the waffle pattern, looked pretty tuff to do and get it right. Anyway I figure I’ll still be slinging putty at the sides of my panzers for some time to come.[:)]
I’ve used the Cavalier zimmerit on my Elefant, which I really liked. And I have all three of the latest releases from Dragon/Cyber-Hobby that feature pre-molded zimmerit. One of these days I’d like to try making my own zimmerit. I’ll probably try it for the first time on my Dragon JagdPanther Ausf. G1 Early since it is basically a slab sided vehicle and wouldn’t be too hard to practice on.
By the way, there were two issues with the Dragon/Cyber-Hobby StuH 42 Ausf. G which are documented in my review of the kit, just click the link below. [:)]
Gotta admit–I DO enjoy the versatility and unique character of either making my own or using an AM, but the molded-on zimm kits are a nice “weekend project” type of build that are a nice option to know is out there.
I haven’t bought a “pre-molded” kit yet, but probably will - at some point. I’ve only done 3 subjects with Zimmerit thus far…one with Atak resin and two with putty…and I’ll definitely continue to do my own on the majority of my projects.
I have never make my own zim because of time constrain. So, I look into Atak or Cavalier resin zim. The downside of using resin zim, is to make that chipped zim. These resin zims are so thin that they just easily break apart if you try to chipped them.
Plus, I rather pay an extra 20 bucks then spend a day or more just to make zim.
I’ve yet to make my own and have applied just one Cavalier set. Most of my kits don’t require any. I do have an Atak and a Cavalier for two other kits though. Great stuff and pretty much fool proof. I would like a Panther G or a StuG with waffle pre-zim to save time and such. I’m not too into it being unique by doing my own zim, for I believe my paint job and weathering will make it unique in itself.
I agree, the molded on zim kits look to uniform, but the good thing is many people will now buy a tiger with molded zim where as they may have left it on the shelf beacause they did not have the confidence to try putty. I dont think the ataks or cavaliers will hurt to much
I generally use Cavalier Zimmerit. I have trouble getting the putty to look right. Plus I don’t want to royally screw up a kit with a hot iron, not very forgiving. i have found that you can use zimmerit made for TAMIYA KITS ON DML kits. The fit is a little short in some instances. So I cut it towards the middle say ona Panther where the tools are applie a little putty and use the rake tool that comes with the Cavalier set. Just my $0.02 cents
Steve,
I am buying anything that is released Pre Zimmed, I have the StuG and the Panther and am waiting for the Tiger II.
And still I am trying to learn how to hand apply it myself.
I guess that I am well over 200 hours of bad attempts so far.
As soon as I feel confident I will continue work on Dragons T1 late (3in1) and the resent Jagdpanther.
That might take another year or two though
One thing I would say is that when I started out trying to learn how to do this I went to the LHS to get some advice.
They could not offer any help but the most basic, use putty.
I tried Testors, it melted the plastic.
I tried Humbrols, it melted the plastic.
I tried Red Milliput but the sample was so out aged that I could not get a workable mix.
I tried a cheap car repair type putty and was almost hospitalized by the fumes. And yes it melted the plastic.
I tried a cheap putty used for domestic repairs, it was not fine enough.
I am now making some slow progress with Rewell (it melts the plastic but I am getting faster) and Tamiya putty.
And I here that Milliput Super Fine is a workable product so I might get some.
I have tried mosquito net but it was to fare out of scale.
It is not as if I have not tried…
I will not give up on making my own but as you can appreciate I am very happy that I can get it readily molded on.
Wow Johan…that is quite a list of experiments there. I too traveled the full gamut, I had some success with putty, but as you know, settled on the hot knife.
Good luck with those ‘pre zimmed’ releases, sounds like you’ve earned it my friend!
As I build 1:72 scale, any German armour with zimm becomes a bit of a problem. I have not yet seen (with some exceptions) putty or hot knife applied zimm that looks really good. Those blokes are better modellers than me for trying though, so don’t get me wrong.
What is encouraging however is the recent Dragon releases (and the older Hasegawa ones) with moulded on zimm. Under a coat of paint the effect will be just fine and takes a fair bit of pain out the whole process. I have the Henschel King Tiger and the Jagdtiger and they look very nice indeed.
Funnily enough, I found a Tamiya 1:35 Porsche turret King Tiger lurking under a pile of dust at the back of my kit stash. Inside the box was a Cavalier resin zimm set. I recall getting this kit about 9 years back, so it must be one of Cavalier’s earliest sets.
I am just starting to experiment with making zimmerit and I hope that I don’t have to go through that much to find something that works for me, so far using Squadron white and cement seems to be working the best. It is good to know though that if I can’t get it to work that there is still an alternative to fall back on, even if it dosen’t look as good.
I make my own. I’ve tried using Apoxie, Liquitex Acryl Gel, and Games-workshop Green Stuff by far. Didn’t like apoxie at all since it somehow ended up in a mess in my hand and it stinks like dirty damp drains. The acryl gel medium was a little soft on the detail but really easy to do and redo. I just wish it were a little thicker but then when I drag the Tamiya Zimm tool over the surface it tears up. The best detail I got so far is from Green Stuff but it’s just expensive in the long run. I bought the tamiya epoxy putty and polyester putty a while back and plan to try them for my next attempt together with this ProCreate sculpter putty suggested by the hobbyshop owner when I was trying to get milliput.
I did buy the king tiger kit with molded on zim as soon as it came out, but I don’t think I will stop making my own since modelling is replication of the real deal from prototypes and photographs and so far I have not seen photos of two different tanks in combat sharing the same zim detail and wear.
Molded on zim is only good as a time saver for those who are short on free time (ah u married guys with kids =P), inexperienced or a lil afraid of messing up a whole kit yet still want to try these late war camo patterns without caring so much about accuracy. Sooner or later they will come across a cheap Tamiya late Tiger I on ebay and decide, hey maybe it’s time I give that soldering iron a shot instead of dumping in 15 bucks for a resin set.
For those of you who are stubborn, and want to try the hot knife method, here is a little tutorial I put together last year.
MAKE SURE YOU USE NO GREATER than 15w irons! 30W is too hot and will melt the work!
For the Tamiya King Tiger, I used a 15W soldering iron, with a standard conical tip:
You must layout the pattern on the bare plastic with a pencil and rule to give yourself some “guidelines” so you keep things straight:
Then just go to town, using a “drawing motion” similar to a paint brush stroke. This step is actually fun, and allows you to get into those tight spots easily:
After paint and weathering, you get this:
On the DML Tiger, I used the same method, getting better as I learned:
On the DML Panther A, due to the vertical square pattern, I switched to a modified XACTO blade:
However we do it, zimmerit adds the realism we all desire when tackling period German armor. I feel the home made brand is a statement to individuality and makes the build truly “your own”, being unique and original.
If any one has any questions, please PM or e-mail me.
[#offtopic] Crockett, did you notice some jack-[censored] has set up two screen names so far (both in violation of the rules re: bad words) for the sole purpose of rating your post 0? Some coward apparently has a problem with you and is doing this childish little game. [}:)]
I’ve tried (so far) only duro wood putty and found it to be pretty “wet”. I’m using it on an old Tam. Panther A, so no great loss, and I’ve only done the turret so far. Crockett, I like your results, looks like my next attempted method.
And about the “ratings”: Sheesh. What some people think is fun amazes me.
Thanks for the heads up, but no I didn’t really pay any attention to the rating thing. I have seen some posts relating to some mischief going on in this regard on the site. I hope you are doing well, I don’t think we’ve had much correspondence since Model X went off line.
It is a shame that malicious activities like this take place, as you know, I only try to help and sometimes on the net, as in life, people can be cruel and insensitive.
