Just a couple in progress photos of a Tamiya 1/72 scale 190D-9 I’m working on. This will be an OOB build, (the last OOB build for a while as some bigger projects are next). The belly and landing gear have been painted and some weathering, (almost all pastels so far), applied. The flash washed out much of the detail but you get the idea. Top colors start tomorrow…will be a 82/83 over 76 scheme.
Happy modeling all!
Joe Youngerman
Looking good so far Joe. Keep us posted.
Regards, Rick
Nice subtle weathering on the be’lly ,Joe.
I like the 262B in your sig too.Hase 1/72?
Your FW is well on the way to another great build. Keep it up.
Darwin, O.F. [alien]
Joe,
Nice so far !
Chris
Nice work Joe! very impressive
Thanks guys…its been an easy build so far and I’m happy to finally add a D-9 to my built collection. Obiwan…the sig picture is actually a Revell kit detailed quite a bit and modified to be a fighter trainer version. The main canopy sections are from the Hasegawa kit though.
Joe
Looks great so far, Joe.
Nice work - the gear look great -
Make sure you post a few pics when it’s done.
Thanks for sharing, man.
Looking good, I relly like the weathering. How do you like the kit?
Best /Johan
She looks good from here Joe
Thad
Thanks guys…Johan, the kit is excellent with very nice details inside and out and the fit is very good overall. Some folks prefer the Hasegawa kit but it lacks some of the details found on the Tamiya kit. Tamiya’s cockpit is much more detailed as are the landing gear and gear doors. At only about $14, it’s a real bargain IMHO.
[:)]
Joe
Dear Joe,
Your weathering is good[:)]. I am also a Fw190D-9 fans from Hong Kong. I am building one (1/72, hasegawa). Which unit of this aircraft do u plan to build.
I have bought Tamiya’s 1/72 fw190D-9 too, its price is vy attractive, just about US$7 at Hong Kong. i haven’t started to build yet. I feel engrave line is vy good.
Erich Yung
Thanks Erich, I have a Hasegawa kit I’ll build eventually too. I have a True Details resin interior for it and an Eduard photo etch “zoom” set that I’ll use for the rear deck area of the cockpit.
This a/c will be “brown 9” of 7./JG 26 (II Gruppe) which was in Nordhorn Germany in February 1945. The pilot is thought to have been Lt. Seigfried Sy. It will be an early Dora with the flat canopy as opposed to the later “blown” type. Tamiya includes both in their kit.
Joe
Nice start, Joe !
I wish there were open wheel well replacements for Fw 190Ds. I’ve gotta cut my Trimaster kits & scratch a pseudo engine.
Looking forward to more pics !
Looking good. Have you considered adding brake lines to those? I usually do that in 1/48, not sure how feasible it would be in 1/72.
Thanks guys…I agree Pix, this is the one glaring shortcoming of all 1/72 scale Fw 190’s .
Swanny, I do add brake lines now on all builds, (such as the sig 262 pic), but this build will be built to IPMS OOB entry standards which does not allow for the addition of brake lines. I have drilled out the exhaust pipes and gun barrels…this is permitted. I plan to do a Hasegawa D-9 sometime soon that will have a new cockpit, Tamiya gear doors, scratch brake lines from fine wire, new gun barrels and several other little goodies!
Joe
coming along very nicely.
Dear Joe,
Is the decal from Eagle Cal, It published a book, ‘green heart’, about fw190 of JG26&54, rather expensive reference.
I have add metal barrel as wing cannon and pitot tube.
Do anyone have suggestion on adding antenna on 1/72 fw190. the thin antenna need to pass through the clear canopy. It seems difficult.
Thanks
Erich Yung
Off to a wonderful start. Please, give me a little lesson in how you made those outstanding panels on the belly. This is one thing I’m dying to learn, but don’t know where to begin.
TOM
Thanks guys for the feedback…Erich, the decals to be used are EagleCal’s EC#3. The antenna wire for this type needs to be specfic to the bird your building. Some had the antenna wire tension pully in the canopy, as mine will, but most had the “blown” canopy which requires the wire to be loose if the canopy is displayed open. I use a fine drill bit and white glue to attach the wire to the canopy.
Tom, (SharkSkin), I pre-shade the model first with black then use a very sharp dark gray or black Prismacolor Pastel pencil to bring out the panels lines. After that a very thin wash of Dark Gray and Burnt Umber to show small fluid leaks running aft from the panels. Restraint is the order of the day here Tom…keep a good belly photo or two close by for reference as you do this. I then mask off the leading edge of each of the belly panel lines foward and gently add gently brush on a light dusting of pastel chaulks of black and browns flowing aft using a small stiff bristle brush…if you make a mistake, just wash it off and re-do! Once this is done I seal the work with a coat of flat.
Hope that helps…don’t be afraid to experiment…I still do all the time!
Joe