Being in Australia, I’m not able to purchase Future Klear but have found Pledge with Future Shine…
Does anyone know if this will work just as well as Future Klear?
I looked all over for Future ages ago but never found it here in Au. This might be of some use:
www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
have you tried Humbrol clear?
www.humbrol.com/…/humbrol-gloss-clear-125ml-bottle.html
I think it’s fantastic and performs just as it say’s in the video, Humbrol clear matt will soon be on the shelves as well.
Hope that helps.
Cheers from Mick.
Clear coats that work include Testors lacquer gloss coat (it does work over enamels and most acrylics), polyurethane (if you buy it in can thin it a LOT), and clear acrylic spray cans-popular with artists and found in art stores.
WALMART
Quick Shine Multi-Surface Floor Finish, 27 fl. oz., Cleaner & Polish
Size: 27 fl oz
$6.87
My go to clears are Alclad Aqua Gloss and Vallejo
Lately I’ve been on a Createx 4050 clear coat. But I kind of go as the wind blows, from that to lacquers, Tamiya X-22, varnishes, now and then Pledge… Haven’t tried Quick Shine, I’ve seen mixed reviews on it.
To be fair, that post was made in 2015. [;)]
Rustoleum makes a clear gloss Acrylic spray if you can use a spray (or decant it).
I believe that’s a solvent based acrylic. All I know is the smell I think is worse than their lacquer, fwiw. In case anyone needs to know.
OOPs, missed that.
I use several different clearcoats. Many times the clearcoat I chose has to do with where the clearcoat is being applied. And is driven by cost.
If I am building a high end show car or lowrider, I use Splash 2k clear. It is kind of expensive, but it cures harder than any other hobby grade clearcoat out there. And it lays down super smooth. So smooth that if I do it right, I don’t even need to polish it.
Most of my scale car builds get my favorite clearcoat. Mr Super Clear UV Cut, from Mr Hobby. This stuff is so good, and so versatile. It is easy to apply, and I get great results from the spray can. I think that is my favorite part. I get great results and I don’t have to clean an airbrush.
Then when I need a good clearcoat on pieces and parts like show car suspensions and engines, I choose from a couple different things based on whatever I have available. I’ll use the Mr Super Clear in the spray can I talked about above. But if I want to save money I’ll use Createx Gloss clear, or I’ll use Tamiya LP series gloss clear mixed with Mr Hobby Leveling Thinner.
The Createx and Tamiya LP options are much cheaper than the 2k clear and the spray cans.
I’ll also use Createx gloss clear as a mid coat when I am doing a fancey metal flake paintjob. The deep metal flake paint jobs take a lot of steps. Primer, then color coats. Then the mid coat is the Createx gloss clear with metal flakes mixed into it. Then I’ll apply 2k clear over that for ultimate gloss.
And since the OP is in Austrailia. I would look at the SMS product line. They make excellent paints and clearcoats. And they are based out of Austrailia.
I have never used Future or Pledge. I see people getting great results. but there are so many clearcoat options out there, I don’t fully understand why someone would use a floor coating instead of a clearcoat.
[dto:]
Another [dto:] from me. Not sure if I got a different formulation of Pledge than what other guys have had, but every time I used it, I would see little cracks in it a day or two later. The only way to stop the cracks from forming was to put Testors or some other clearcoat on top of it, which made me wonder what purpose the Pledge was serving. Pledge does make a great adhesive for PE and clear parts though, so at least it wasn’t a complete waste of money.
I’ve heard of this cracking issue before and wondered if it may have to do with what it’s put on. I’ve never had the cracking issue but it’s only ever been put on acrylic color coats. Non the less, there is no denying there are many iterations of the stuff. Mine is Pledge Floor Care. It’s ok for a quick finish on something not extra important to me.
At the moment my clear of choice is Createx 4050 for various reasons. My second is Tamiya X 22 then clear lacquer. any of those I’d use on a model that was a prize to me.
I noticed this cracking when it was applied over the top of Tamiya X-2 in the main gear well of a 1/32 Hasegawa F-16C I was working on at the time. That X-2 had been on it for about 3 weeks before the PFC (it was the stuff that had a little section of the label that said something like "Now with Future floor shine) went on. Saw the cracks when I came back to it a couple of days later to continue working on it. Kept trying it on other projects…same issue…and sometimes it was enamel paint as well. Ditched it completely as a clearcoat after a more recent 1/32 Tamiya F-16C build, because not only did I have to quickly put another clearcoat over the top of it to keep it from cracking, but I also found out the hard way that it doesn’t play well with liquid maskers. Ruined the first canopy for that Tamiya F-16, since I had dipped the canopy in the PFC (another thing I don’t do anymore because I don’t like the results). I tried soaking the whole canopy in Windex for hours…scrubbed and scrubbed…and just couldn’t get it completely clean. For my purposes, about all the stuff is good for is attaching PE seatbelts, HUD glass, and sensor windows. Its definitely a great, completely transparent adhesive, so I use what I have left of it for that.
Well that’s certainly a lousy experience with the stuff alright. Mine is the next iteration, they had dropped the “with Future” info and put in Floor Care. But that’s not the end of the story, what I have left of the stuff in it’s original bottle has yellowed some.
Lets just face it, it’s meant to be on floors and it’s safe to assume at that, not for a lifetime lol ! I have good clears I trust, so it’s pretty rare for me to use the Pledge.
Exactly! As we’ve seen it said on this forum before…“Future is for floors”. [H]
I’ve been really happy with MRPs clears (they have 4 different sheens), and AKs Gauzy is another good one, especially for clearcoating NMF paintjobs.
If you apply Future (by whatever name) over a well cured gloss paint like Tamiya X-2, it will crack. Walt Fink first encountered this with Gunze paints many years ago. The defect is called, appropriately enough, “crawling.” Here’s why it happens:
You can get a super gloss on a paint finish by incorporating a silicone in the formulation. The silicone compound migrates to the paint surface as it cures, and prevents almost anything from adhering well to that surface. Because all paints shrink as they cure (Future is well known for this.) if it is poorly bonded to the surface because of the silicone compound, cracking results.