This is kind of a three-part question to the forum, as I am still a relatively greenhorn modeler:
I’ve read a lot about modelers using Future floor finish on their models as a protectant against overspray, in particular, on clear canopy parts. To make sure I have this right, I would first dip the parts in Future, let them dry for 24-48 hours, mask them, then paint (correct me if I have a step wrong or if I missed one). How would I then remove any overspray that might have occured?
The canopy I am working with now (part of the Revell A-26B Invader kit) is becoming a bit of a problem for me. I am attempting to use the masking technique, as I have never tried it before, and the result was overspray that got under the tape and onto parts of the canopy that I did not want it to be on. I used the trick of dipping a q-tip in Testors Enamel Thinner and wiping it over the messed-up areas, but now the plastic is foggy looking. How can I fix the foggy look while still removing the paint from the desired areas?
(last one, I promise) While using the masking technique on the aforementioned canopy, the tape left a residue behind. How do I remove this without damaging the paint?
Any suggestions/tips would be GREATLY appreciated! Like I said in the beginning, I am somewhat of a greenhorn modeler, and while I’m not totally incompetent at the hobby, there are certainly some things that I am still trying to master. Thanks!
I tend to use future and then mask with Parafilm. More recently I have been using a liquid mask followed by future after I finish painting. As for thinner on clear parts, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO. Now you will need to polish the canopy as well as you can to unfog it. As for the tape residue, you can try Goo Gone. I wo’nt say it will not do anything to the paint, but I used it on a 1/72 scale JU-52 and saw no problems with my paint. On the other hand mine had been given several years to dry. Good luck and hope I have been able to help.
One method to eliminate spray (or even brushed paint) leaking under masking tape is, to spray part or assembly, after masking, with the color under the tape. In the case of windows, windshields and canopies, this means a clear gloss coat after masking.
Thanks for the advice, AT6! A few questions, though. What would I use to polish the canopy? I have an old eyeglasses polishing cloth; would that work fine? And as for removing the excess paint, would the Goo-Gone get that off as well?
When most of us talk about polishing a canopy it involves progressivly finer grits of sanding sticks and ending up with polishing compund. If you do not have the compound, toothpaste might work in a pinch.
The couple of times I have dipped a clear part in future before masking and painting the tape pulled the future up. This was after more than 48 hours drying time.
To prevent seepage under your mask…rather on clear parts or not…you can spray a layer of clear over the tape before the paint. On a canopy use future because it wont haze of flatten the sheen. On a wing for example I will spray a coat of flat over the edges. What happens is the clear runs under the tape where paint normally would. Now when you add color there will be no room for the paint to leak.
As for removing paint from clear parts…if I remove my masking and see that maybe I didnt get the line perfect and some paint may have gone off the frame onto what would be glass I just let the paint dry fully and run a toothpick along the frame line. It will lift off any paint that may have overstepped its intended area.
I brush paint exclusively, but with my 1/72 aircraft, if some paint sneaks under the canopy framing, I trim the sharp tip off a new round toothpick and used that to gently “scrub” away any excess paint, then polish with a soft cloth to restore lost luster. It usually turns out fine.
The nice things about dipping a canopy in Future before you do anything else to it are: 1) It makes the brittle clear styrene a little stronger, 2) helps it resist accidents with a hobby knife, and 3) any really bad screw up can be removed by washing the canopy in ammonia-based window cleaner, such as Windex, which will remove the Future, and the bad screw up, so you can start all over!
One great tip I learned about masking : I use blue painter’s tape from the local hardware store. I pull a length off the roll, and lay it on my pants or jeans, pressing it down. Then I pull it up and repeat. I do this about five or six times until the tape is not nearly as tacky as it was. Then I lay the length of tape down on the cutting mat and go to work with the knife, cutting the shapes I need in order to do the masking of whatever I’m painting, and I use the handle of a paintbrush to burnish it down a bit. As long as I use this trick, I’ve yet to pull up any clear coat or paint, even the MM Acryls I use. I can’t remember where I read the jeans trick to reduce tackiness, but it’s been probably the single most important change in my modeling in the last two years.