I’m with you on this Greg–CA glue can be szoooo frustra…
I forgot to mention- resin is notorius for lots of mold release on the casting. I wash all resin castings before either gluing or painting.
Hi Don;
I also use C.A. on just about everything I do, there are times you need the stuff. Although it’s minimal, I have learned that it’s best to wash, gently, all plastic parts too. The mold release agent might be " Space Age" But some paints and glues will not stick to the stuff. And you can’t see or smell it!.
I also do what Eaglecash mentioned. A teensy drop of water works just as well as accelerator. Sure is cheaper than the accelerator you buy!
You didn’t mention which brand you currently use (I’m surprised no one else asked, too).
I use Bob Smith Industries’ product, same as some of the others. I should add that BSI’s product is also sold under retailers’ brands. For example, HobbyTown gets its CA and epoxy glues from BSI, and sells them in packages with the HobbyTown label. But if we look at the fine print, we see BSI listed. On the other hand, HobbyLobby sells the product with BSI’s label.
You noted that you were gluing a resin figure together, and that’s important, too - the application, the particular use. I do use CA glue to assemble resin figures, sometimes, but I prefer to use 2-part epoxy, because it’s stronger over time, in my experience.
Also, I’ll pin the join when I can, so, for a 54mm figure or larger. I’ll pin especially when the mating surfaces form a butt join-two flat surfaces butting against each other. I just like the additional strength and gluing surface that pinning provides. CA glue doesn’t have sufficient shear strength for joins like that, in my experience.
In your case, did the glue not cure properly? Did it cure but the join wasn’t strong and the part was easily knocked off? Or was there some other detail about the failure?
I just ask, to help get some clarity, to better inform my reply. Because maybe it’s not the glue, but the technique - maybe the join itself isn’t strong enough, or something else.
Also, I don’t use CA glue to assemble styrene parts; I use glues made specifically for styrene for that, like Tamiya’s, Testor’s, Plastruct’s products. I like the weld bond. I use CA to attach unlike materials, like PE to styrene, resin to styrene, resin and white metal; or to bond materials other than styrene to like materials - resin to resin, metal to metal.
I use the Bob Smith gel usually and the accelerator when needed (even asked the wife to spray the accelerator on occasion as you need 3 hands)
Thanks guys for all the belated answers,this is the suggestion that I went with,and it has been working great for two months now.
Thanks,Eaglecash
No problem, Tojo. [H]
I just wanna add something to the discussion. Not really all that related, but I use CA and Epoxy quite a lot in other applications. I am an avid bowler. I mold my own custom thumbs from a urethane 1:1 mix. Glue these into my thumbholes. Over the last 15 years or so of using these, I have had quite a few break out mid throw. Every single one was glued in place with CA glue. This is pretty much a standard across the industry. I picked up some 1:1 mix 5 min epoxy and started using that and have never had a grip break out on me since.
I will add that the best part of using epoxy is that it allows for adjustment after you have positioned your parts. This is extremely usefull in the bowling application, but you have to let it set for a few hours. Only bad thing is that you have to be a little easy on application as it doesnt just evaporate, what you apply stays there. I am about to use some epoxy on my resin prop and spinner for my Spit.
CA is excellent in tension, but not so good in shear, which is what happened to your custom thumb holes.
Mike