I have built two recent AFVs using the white metal FM tracks. I prefer them over magic track. I recently read in an Ospry modeling book dedicated to Pzkw VI Tiger I a recommendation to use brass rod instead of the supplied wire. The claim was it makes a more robust but still functional link join system.
The smallest diameter brass rod I have found to date is K&S .020" (.508mm) a Tower Hobby. Has anyone used this technique and can advise if .020" rod will work? I am starting a Dragon limited ed. Pzkw VI soon and am ramping up the logistics to be ready.
Honestly… I think the practice of cutting brass rods for them is a glimpse into the mind of an over achiever. The wire that comes with the tracks is perfectly useful and as far as being more robust, how strong to they need to be? You could use bone stock Frui tracks to beat a junk yard dog half to death, I think that is plenty strong enough for a static display model… don’t you!
Seriously, If you want to use wire that it stiffer then use straight pins. They’re dirt cheap and just the right size and already cut down, only needing trimmed once done. Some may argue that the brass rod makes it look more like a “track pin” and there is some truth to that but considering the painting and weathering that goes into a properly prepared set of tracks the extra work would be hardly noticeable.
I like to use piano wire that you can buy at hobby shops. Its stiffer than the wire supplied which makes pushing it through the holes easier, just don’t push too hard.
I have made 2 sets of Fruils, I heard what you did before I ever tired them. I use the .020 wire exclusively, and the second set I did was a teeny set of Vickers sized tracks. I tried is before ever trying th ewire, figuring that it would just be easier to feed the rod than the wire, which is not as straight, and a bit flimsier. I think I pay $1.20 for 5 rods, enough for a tank with reasonable width treads.
Chase the holes with a .020 drill bit in a pin vise, then feed in the rod, bottom it out, pull out about 2 mm, snip it off, and push it back in.
Here are what the tracks look like after finishing
I have just used Fruil tracks for the first time on my current WIP (DML StuG A) and they were just brilliant!
The wire supplied is fine for the job but not ‘ideal’ imo. It bends very recently if the holes aren’t perfectly lined up slowing the assembly time down a bit. The first track run took me three hours!!! The second took just over one hour so it’s the technique that you need to work on.
I’m told that 0.5mm Sequin Pins are good for this job but the smallest I could find were 0.65mm. As the holes are o.5mm diameter I’m sure the 0.5mm pins might be a tad too tight-perhaps I’m wrong.
Anyway, I’ll be using Fruil tracks on my next big build (DML Panther G) and will be looking into thin rod or sequin pins as I found the wire ok but, like I said, not ideal.
Thanks for the info. You answered my question as to rod diameter. The straight pin suggestion by K Dawg was also appreciated. The brass rod suggestion intrigued me as it seemed it might make assembly go faster. I have had my struggles with the Frui supplied wire bending during insertion. The straight pin tip also would seem to help in that regard.
