Hey there. I was looking at some old Star Wars rub on transfer images on Pinterest tonight and thought: “Can I make my own”? Sure enough, I did a search and there is a simpler and better way than decals. It seems that all you have to do is run a piece of printer acetate through and then rub it on. Some people say to use hair gel spray before printing on the acetate. Then, you are supposed to use hairspray to help set the transfer. I’m not sure which is best, but I’m going to try this technique. Any comments, suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
I am assuming you print a reverse image, right? And do you have to do the transfer while the ink is still wet?
I have seen somewhere about using laser printed images and ironing on the reversed image. I am wondering if those T-shirt papers work that way too. I just am nervous about ironing something onto my model!
Yes, you’re supposed to print the image reversed. But the transfer is to be dry and burnished, not ironed on.
Hello!
Years ago I was using a similar technique for making my own printed circuit boards - I printed the layout of the board on clear sheet, then i have put the sheet with the “ink”/toner to the copper and by using hot iron I was able to transfer the toner to the copper. Then I didd the etching and the PCB was done! Actually if somebody would like to try this, one could probably make his own photoetch this way - although it would take some experimenting to get all the parameters straight.
Using some release agent between the clear sheet and the “ink”/toner sounds right for making custom dry transfers - I sure would love to see some pictures of how it turned out. Good luck with the process and have a nice day!
Paweł
Another issue you may encounter is translucency of the ink. Most inkjet inks are dye based and not pigment based. They are optimised to render the correct colour over white paper. Over any other base colour and all bets are off. Also, as with all inkjet printers, you can’t print white.
I have used that toner transfer paper for both circuit boards and PE. My main problem with the PE is that the ironing process smeared the lines a bit and lowered the resolution. I do intend to keep working to refine the process. It is sure a lot easier the photo method. I will be trying different temperatures and pressures.
The stuff is readily available- just google “toner transfer paper.” I use the same etchant, ferric cloride, for both circuit boards and brass PE. Toner is a wax-carbon mix, and the wax is resistant to the resist.
That’s a point that can’t be overstated.
That’s a point that can’t be overstated.