Floor polish

Tools, Techniques, and Reference Materials Painting and airbrushing
1

I don’t know if Future floor polish is available here in Australia, as I have looked in heaps of supermarkets. I did find a floor polish however, which seemed to be the same so I bought it and tried it out. Its called Pascoes Long life, and if anyone has tried and didn’t think it as good as future then drop me a line. i think its alright, but never having tried Future I wouldn’t know.

2

Never heard of Pascoes, in Europe the Future equiv is supposed to be Johnson’s clear. You have that down under?

Fade to Black…

3

Michael,
Where did you get the Pascoe’s Long Life? I’d like to give it a try. I also have some mates here who have found a Future substitute but I forget what it’s called. I’ll try and find out and let you know.
I kinda get lucky - my Mum lives in the States and she sends me a bottle of Future every now and again…
Cheers mate
LeeTree

4

I just went to Woolworths and asked them if they had floor polish. They said yes and I went and looked, but they only had Pascoes Long life. Don’t know if Future is called anything different here, but there was either the Pascoes or a SC Johnson product called Pledge One step (I think). If you use Future does it show up any marks on the surface i.e. if the surface is kinda dimply does it make it worse??

5

Putting a coat of Future on will tend to highlight some specks of dust or anything that’s similar, like rough paint. That’s just the nature of a gloss coat.

But the cool thing about Future is that you can put on several coats, and then sand it with a fine grit to level things off. Takes time and is tedious, but it works.

Fade to Black…

6

Thats what I thought, so I shall go and practice!

7

michalanstess,
The “dimply” effect you are talking about on the base coat is a thing called orange peel, at least I think that is what you are talking about. If you coat orange peeled paint with future or any gloss coat for that matter, the surface will be smooth but the orange peel may show through the gloss coat. It is best to sand the paint smooth before applying a clear coat to make sure you get no orange peel.

8

Actually it’s alot less riskier putting future on and sanding that smooth than it is sanding the paint itself, but I guess it’s a matter of personal preference.

Fade to Black…

9

I had a bonnet off a '68 El Camino that I had already sanded smooth, and I sprayed that. I brushed some of the Pascoes on to a windscreen for a '69 Pontiac Firebird, and sprayed the bonnet and rear wing of that car as well. The whole came out with the dimply pattern that I mentioned. I did have a problem a while ago with orange peel on a Chrysler 300C, but the pattern doesn’t really look like that. I have only put one coat of the polish on however, so maybe I just need more coats and I need to sand it. But its strange that it came up with that pattern on the windscreen though.

10

Hi Michalanstress
I bought a bottle of Long Life recently but haven’t had a chance to trial it as yet so i’d be keen to know if it works for you.
Another Aussie has recommended Johnson’s Super Shine - but i can’t find it at any stores here in WA.
PB

11

Well having never tried anything else, and not being a modeler of any notable skill, I really don’t know if it is working. It’s going on, and then as I said it looks kinda dimply, but I know its not orange peel as I made sure the base coat was smooth, so maybe its just not the right kind of stuff. But I will look for Johnson’s Super Shine, and see if that is any different. Oh well back to the drawing board. :slight_smile:

12

Michael try putting on more light coats and then go with a heavier coat (without running of course). I’ve heard some folks say that future will do that if it’s sprayed on too thin ( I think??). That might be your problem, just watch out for runs!

Eric

13

Thanks, I have a tendency to do everything heavy handed anyway, so I was putting heavy coats on straight away. At first it was smooth and shiny, but then as it dried it came up with this finish. Plus I know that the coats are way too heavy cause I was ending up with runs. It’ll be interesting to see if someone else in Oz has the same experience or if its just me. How long does future take to dry any way?? The stuff I’m using says 20 mins, but I’m sure its longer.

14

The 20 minutes is a rough estimate of course that will depend on the thickness of the coat, temp., humidity etc. You might be able to sand that one and recoat it. In the future try a few light coats first then a hevier coat last to smooth it out. Good luck.

Eric

15

Thanks I will definitely try and work this thing out. I emailed SC Johnson to see if a product they have here called Pledge One Go (I think) is similar to Future. We shall see.

16

I let future dry for at least 24 hours between coats. I use future on a/c to seal the decals and before I apply an oil wash over acrylic paint. My paint process goes like such:

  1. apply paint, let dry 24 hrs.

  2. apply 1 coat of future so decals have gloss coat to set on, let dry 24 hrs.

  3. apply decals, let dry/set

  4. apply a light coat of future to seal decals, let dry 24 hrs

  5. apply a second light coat of future, let dry 24 to 48 hrs. (if the model will be handled a lot in step 6 I wait 48 hrs to be sure the future is totally dry, if I can wash and weather the plane without having to move it too much I wait 24 hours)

  6. apply wash and weathering

  7. final coat, future if the model is to have a gloss finish, Testors acrylic flat if the model is to be dull.

17

That’ll work. I’ve just gotta iron out my Future (?) problems. You use acrylic for the base coats?

18

This ones for the aussies try SHINE MAGIC it’s a johnsons product and comes up better than any other products I have tried. Bluey

19

Shine magic eh?? I’ll track it down. Thanks Bluey.