I dont know exactly what its called, but I have some model master clear flat. In the FSM article aout washing a tiger, the guy said he sprayed it on the decals, but can you spray it on the whole thing? Or will it screw it up?
Thanks a lot
If it is just a flat coat there is no problem with spraying it on the entire model. If it’s some thing that you’ve never used before you may want to try it on a piece of scrap or an old model just to see how you like it and how it performs.With any overcoat it’s better to go with several(3 or 4) light coats instead of a heavy coat. I’m not quite sure of the product you are talking about. If it’s already in a rattle can you’re pretty well set. If it’s something you’re spraying through an airbrush check the recommended mix and test first.[2c]
its fine to spray it over the whole model.
Hi…I agree with the other guys…JUST ONE THING
ALWAYS spray when its a dry day … and make sure you have NO moisture in your airbrush or compressor tank…(if your using one) …flat coats have a nasty habbit of developing white fog or white specks if its moist ‘’
but yep …all over is best as it gives an even finnish
AJ
The product is called “Dullcoat” and I can’t live without it. I use “Glosscoat” first to give my decals a smooth surface to stick to then dullcoat to protect them from the rest of the weathering.
Thanks a lot guys.
The advice about dry day is really important. I have a Shiden that now looks like crud because I sprayed on a hot humid summer day. It doesnt happen often but when it does its a real real bummer.
It says that on rattle cans also, why? Does the humidity not let the paint dry?
I live in the Pacific Northwest, near Seattle, and have sprayed on high humidity days (I’ve been told it rains here) and have sprayed on low humidity days and have never had problems with humidity ruining anything. I don’t have a water-trap on my air-brush either. I’m sorry to hear about people’s problems though.
Glenn
I think we need to make a distinction here. Dullcote as offered by testors is LAQUER. I’m pretty sure the model masters clear flat is also laquer. There are other clear flat over coats (Polyscale, etc.) that are actually water soluable, and are best for acrylic finishes. If you’re using dullcote, be careful about spraying over acrylic finishes, as the laquer base will “eat” the acrylic if it is not fully cured. It is possible to remove the water based flat coats from enamel base coats with water or alchohol, but obviously, you wouldn’t want to try that with and acrylic base coat.
I use Testor’s Dull-cote. I thin it with about 50% lacquer thinner. I spray it over enamels, acrylics, whatever. Never had a problem with the dull-cote attacking anything. Although I will note that I do not work very fast! So most likely whatever the dull-cote is being sprayed over has had time to ‘cure’!
Glenn
We’ve all seen this and agree that it is bad but I have actually tried without luck to reproduce it in some cases. On some of my railroad models this effect is very realistic. I’ve only got it to work about 2 or 3 times. I know this is an oddball opinion.
The talcum settles to the bottom and this is the stuff that causes the flatness or cloudy effect when it goes wrong.
I put a small stainless steel nut or bolt into the bottle to use as a mixer. I shake the bottle very rigorously before using. I figured stainless steel should resist rusting or reacting with the dull-cote. So far so good! Part of that is using up a bottle before too much time has past.
Glenn
I’ve never had a problem with glosscoat attacking my acrylic or enamel finishes, but I also work pretty slow and it’s possible mine are just completely cured as well, before I spray my clear coats on.