What is the general concensus on here on what to use to fill sink marks? For instance on the Viper I am doing, one of the rear tail lights is slightly deformed, as in its too big of a hole. What can I use to fill the hole in a bit so that I may sand it down or reform it later? Thanks!
Tamiya Basic Putty. Comes in a tube. Aplly it to a piece of paper, take some of the putty on the paper to your knife and smear it on. Let it dry, and sand! [:D]
That’s what I do…
Only difference is I use Games Workshops Sculpting Tool, and not a knife [:P]
Hope it helps!
-Lasse
I like to use Testor’s Contour Putty for fixing sink marks and ejector pin marks, however you’ll find alot of people who disagree with my choice and who use entirely different products.
When Mikael posted that I went and searched for that product, that I’ve never heard of [:P]
Check this link. This is where the search lead me:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t140026.html
They are talking mainly about the Testor’s Contour Putty applied on car bodies… And that’s what you model, right?
As Mikael already pointed out, some people would disagree… From what I see, it’s yet another of those “Either you hate it or love it”! [:o)]
Hope this helps even more! [:)]
-Lasse
For sink marks, I’ve used Squadron white putty, straight up, and thinned with acetone. I’ve also used Mr Surfacer, the 1200 and 1500 grades, and White-Out. It depends on the nature of the sink mark, I suppose, but my experience has been, generally, that the shallower the mark, the more liquid or the thinner the filler needs to be.
Regards,
Brad
[#ditto]
How well would regular Bondo, like from WalMart, work? If you look at the picture, you can see that the drivers side tail light looks pretty bad. Its supposed to come to more of a point as it goes towards the front of the car. I’ve read that the Testors and Tamiya puttys can both make the plastic soft because of the solvents in the putty. And I’ve read the Squadron putty isnt the greatest either. I’m kind of stuck at this point in the model because I’m ready to start on the body paint!
Thanks for looking!
Automotive gazing putty in a tube works well too. Cheap and available from any auto supply place, Walmart, etc. Dries fast and sands easy.
I use bondo quite a bit on my models. The one part spot glazing putty or --whatever it’s called-- is nice for small areas. The 2 part body filler is great for larger areas or custom work. It sands down well, too and ends up just about as smooth as the plastic underneath if you use a good primer. I use the single part in the tube for sink marks and ejector pin holes, and I think it with lacquer thinner for the real small imperfections.
Another low cost alternative that works well is Liquid Paper correction fluid.
I use it straight out of the bottle. Just dab a little bit in the hole or seam, let it dry, then sand it smooth. It works great and dries really fast.
That’s just MY opinion though…I could be wrong!
Richard S.