I use milliput epoxy putty for that kind of gaps. It can be a bit messy, but since you can smooth it with water and fingers/tools straight after application, there’s no sanding required… It dries rock solid faster than normal kind of putties. However, you need to have a sound base for application… Milliput does not contain acetone that attacks the plastic and therefore does not melt plastic and does not form a joint the way liquid glue would (melting both plastic parts into one, in effect).
Another way is to use filler (such as Tamiya’s) and smooth it straight away, or after it’s become hard, with nail polish remover (and a piece of cloth or Q-tips).
I usualy use my trysty toothpicks to spread Milliput or the Tamiya stuff.
You can do wonders with the stuff, just have a bowl of water, some cuticle sticks and a few paper towels handy before starting anything.
I prefer the culticle sticks to toothpicks as they are sturdier and come with ends that are shaped just right for sculpting the stuff into contours, just keep it wet, if you put too much water on it, thats what the paper towels are for.
I try to minimize my use of the superglue filling methods. I find they’re a lot more work than they’re worth for the results that you get.
Use the white (fine). It is a smooth paste like substance. It is the only way to go for modeling. It is much easier to work with and will give you a smooth finish. The others are too grainy and hard to get a smooth finish with them.
Don’t weant to create an argument here, but I’d advise you to go with the medium one (it comes in a white box with red titles and trimmings) it comes in two components, one yellow-green the other grey-green, and the mixed product is light grey. Two reasons:
Milliput SuperFine (the White one) is more expensive… The red/white boxed Milliput is already extremely expensive in the US (as it’s imported from Europe)
Milliput SuperFine dries MUCH faster than the normal one, leaving you less time to work the stuff and shape/sculpt it.
Always work with tiny amounts of the stuff. Mix it properly until it’s color is very uniform, if not you’ll end up with something that never dries… And yes, working with cuticles sticks is a great idea!
You want get an argument from me. I like the white, but each should give his openion on the subject. If everyone liked/used the same thing, what a dull world we would live in. Opinions count in model building and eventually the modeler settles on a product or technique that works for himself. Happy modeling.
Mind if I throw in my $.02? I’ve always had good luck with Bondo #907 Glazing and Spot Putty. A trip to Wal-Mart and about $3 will get you 4.5 oz (a LOT). While it is made for 1:1 auto body work and is hot (thin with laquer thinner) I’ve never had problems even when applied to bare plastic (though I usually prime first). It dries quickly (+/ - 20 min.) and sands easily; glass smooth wet-sanding with fine grit.
For applying putty to large areas, try using spreaders cut from plastic lids (coffee, yogurt, etc). Check your fridge, you probably have several different thicknesses. They can be cut to follow specific contours, and when the putty dries just bend it to clean or toss it out.
I can relate to that, Hoser, my favorite ‘normal’ filler is also an automotive product called Motip, made in Germany. It does not ‘retract’ as much as other modeling putty. But Milliput remains my best friend when it comes to ‘delicate’ operations!
I have been using Tamiya polyester putty for a while…it is rather expensive for the quantity you get, however…$12 for a decent sized tube. It is a two part putty…a base and a catalyst. One product that has been recomended in other mag’s and in quite a few “How to” books is Evercoat Eurosoft…It’s like a “Bondo” type filler. You can order it at virtually any auto paint/body supply store. Not sure of the cost…been a while since I checked last. I have heard a LOT of good things about it.
i’ve used the squadron green and white putty’s for years. They work, are cheap, and there is no mixing involved. You just squeeze out what you need and then cap it. No fuss, no muss. I will say this though, milliput for sculpting and Zimmerit is by far superior.
The Squadron putties are nice for MINOR repairs, but they shrink REALLY bad…I only use them for deep scratch type repairs and such. They’re nice for that…dry quick and is cheap.
I’m a fan of Tamiya filler and nail varnish remover. Once squeezed out of the tube it dries very quickly but a drop of nail varnish remover every few minutes keeps it malleable and easy to work with.
For filling small holes or areas that are difficult to get at I dilute the filler to a runny consistency and drop it in place with a toothpick. It may take two or three coats to ensure proper filling but it minimises overspill and keeps surface detail intact. Its ideal for filling wing roots and those unsightly seams resulting from joining fuselage halves.
I’ve never had Squadron Green putty shrink. The trick is to put it on in light coats. I built AMT/ERTL’s original Star Trek U.S.S. Enterprise kit, which need putty like mad, and also their more current cutaway kit of the Enterprise, and on that one I puttied all the cutaway sections to make it appear solid. Years later, no shrinkage. Light coats, left to dry well is the trick.
Lee
i use motomaster(yes im canadian) red putty, its $8.50 for 450 ml’s which is a lot. if u want some grey putty, use tamiya grey. its around $5 for about 32 grams. yes grams.
It’s not really a putty, but I have had good luck with micro balls and super glue for larger gaps. For the small ones, the Squadron putty has always served me well (again like stated above, use in thin coats).
In general, I tend to muse Humbrol Model filler, although Humbrol have had stability problems, where the binder comes out of solution. However, leaving the top off the tube for 24 hours allows it to thicken up to a usable consistency.
It’s like the little girl; when it’s good, it’s very very good…
Recently, I have used superglue with a fair degree of success. the secret is to sand it before it gets too hard - it eventally sets harder than the styrene!
For hairline cracks and pinholes, correction fluid works well, particularly iff you can get the solvent-based kind. It flows int the crack, solidifies in a few seconds and is easy to sand.
I use “Bondo red automotive body putty” you can get it most anywhere,It’s cheap & it sands and smooths out quite well. I used to use squadron green ,testor’s etc 7 I find this works well for me. It comes in a tube & if kept sealed will last a long time