Just wondering what people like to use for their parts they paint brass. I am looking at two possibilities, Model Masters non buffing Brass metalizer and Alclad titanium gold. Obviously the Model Master is cheaper than the Alclad, but is the Alclad better? I do have Tamiya gold, but I think the consistency is to “flaky” for the look I want on screws, ship bells, etc.
Testors does make a brass in the little square bottles, but it is so close to their gold that I just keep the gold on hand now.
I also find a lot of kits call for brass for parts that are really bronze on the prototype, and there is no good bronze that I know of- I do bronze in several airbrush coats of different colors.
The answer is drumroll - it depends. What are you painting besides props, and in what scale?
In 1/700, I too use Testors gold No. 1144 in the little square bottle, although they also have a brass color that you may want to look at. For the small amounts I use, I sometimes use the brass, No. 1182, for things like compass or engine telegraph stands. Either of which I apply with a brush.
I just did some comparison shopping for some brass paint at one of the LHS
To my eye, the Testor’s brass in the small square bottle it too coppery looking. The MM Acrylic brass is too white. What I settled on is the Floquil Railroad Colors brand of brass. Nice & shiney - it looks like the door knob on the front door
Thanks for the replies everyone. Guess it is out to the hobby shop to do some comparison shopping!
And for the record the kit the got me to ask this question is the old Revell USS Arizona. I am thinking of starting it as a somewhat longer term project. But I do eventually want to pick up some 1/350 kits. My 1/700 kits (what I mostly build) I tend to go waterline kits since it is easier to store on my shelfs. But the bigger kits it is a shame not to show off those ful hulls! [:D]
Props are one of the things I meant, about instructions being wrong. Small boats may have brass props (speedboats, etc) but the props on most large ships are a type of bronze, and don’t look gold or brass colored at all. The bronze rapidly picks up a patina anyway, so if the model is supposed to represent anything after launching the props should look patina- color. And, unfortunately, the patina color depends a lot on which alloy it is. I frequently use a mix of brown and OD, then gloss coat it.
Here’s another one to think about. Alclad II Pale Gold. Then shoot a very thin and light coat of clear green (Tamiya) over it. The clear green gives it a nice patina and as with all Alclad’s there’s no gravely finish like you get with lots of other metalizers or metallic finishes.