My wife is seriously allergic to latex, so I can’t even have them in the house, the smell alone bothers her. I swear, she has the same level of olfactory senses as my Lab.
I use the plastic ones for painting though.
My wife is seriously allergic to latex, so I can’t even have them in the house, the smell alone bothers her. I swear, she has the same level of olfactory senses as my Lab.
I use the plastic ones for painting though.
jtilley,
Okay, I can see that.
As both Pilot John, and I said, I think that the surgical gloves being somewhat thinner based on the sensitivity needed by a surgen who no one can argue is less important then our buidling a model. Thus requiring them to be able to depend more on their sense of touch then we do.
Was it because of a chemical reaction between the two, or your almost gluing yourself to your work surface?
MC,
Yeah, in your situation I can see there being a major problem.
l believe the surgical type gloves are a must when using something like Purple Power to remove old paint. From what I’ve read that stuff dissolves fatty tissue in your hands and fingers. Its what makes your hands feel kinda slippery/ greasy when you get the liquid on you.
I only use surgical gloves for painting and handling a model after painting. The cost is next to nothing 7p (about 10c) a glove and I probably save that in cleaning costs for my hands.
If you search you can get latex free gloves, I have an ex with the allergy too so I automatically pick them.
Phil
Yep, same thing. Hardware store sells them as painter’s gloves.
My mom’s brother was an old-time paint contractor; he taught me the trade. He started painting in 1935. To keep his hands clean, Uncle Elzy always used those cheap brown “jersey” knit gloves. [:)]
mitsdude,
I’ve never used Purple Power so I don’t have a frame of reference for what it does or doesn’t feel like on the skin. But if it’s as powerful as people have reported it to be, it wouldn’t surprise me if it reacts the way that you descripe.
I removed the chrome plating from a Tamiya MiG-15 kit with Simple Green, a similar product I’d guess. I used no gloves and scrubbed it with an old toothbrush. I noticed no issues with my old skin. Ymmv…[;)]
Gary
Gary,
I’ll have to give Simple Green a try. Fortunately “knock on wood” I usually do not have a problem with contact dermatitis. So I would think that I shouldn’t have a problem with Simple Green either.
Can it be used to remove just a little bit of the chrome, i.e. from the gluing surface alone, or is it an all or nothing process?
I don’t know that answer Cowboy. I just soaked all the parts in an old baking pan for a couple days. It got rid of all of the chrome with some determined scrubbing of a few stubborn pieces. Sorry.[:)]
Use the purple or blue ones, they are nitrile, not latex, and fit better.
EJ
Thanks for the information. It’d be interesting to try it.
ejhammer,
I was thinking of those as well. Like you said they’re not only thinner, but they’re latex free.
I’ve gotten into the habit of saving the wrapper that newspapers come in. Mostly for rattle can jobs. I just slip one on like a glove.no dexterity there but it works pretty well
Raualduke,
I like that idea. Reusing something that a lot of people already have on hand, before disposing of it.
Yes, many hobbyists and model builders use disposable gloves (like exam gloves) for painting, gluing, and general handling. They serve several purposes:
Bottom line: Nitrile gloves are generally the best choice for painting, gluing, and handling models they balance protection, dexterity, and chemical resistance.
No,not really.I have not been using gloves while modeling,just airbrushing to keep my hands clean