Ok well the thing is I know the relative diferences , the positives and negatives of each type , the thing is the other day I was painting a tank ( as you do )with acrylics and then applied some camo with enamels on top ( I dont have an airbrush and enamels tend to feather a bit easier for me to get that airbrushed camo look) . Now I wanted to go over the model with inks an paint over bits of the enamel with acrylics but the inks refuse to play ball and the acrylics dont like it either. Is this a common problem? Can acrylics be applied over enamels? Will Styrene go AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH!!! ??
Acrylics can be applied over enamels, and enamels can be applied over acrylics. You just need to be sure you give a couple of days curing time before painting over the top. Is the enamel you put down a gloss? Sometimes I’ve had trouble with inks and whatnot not wanting to stick to a gloss surface. Just an idea.
the enamel was matt Humbrol if that makes any diference, and the Acrylics used were Games Workshop similar type to Vallejo rather than Tamiya. The ink was windsor and Newton. The curing time may have something to do with it but Im petty sure it was at least 24 hours between painting the enamel on and trying to ink or paint over it.
Styrene won’t complain. And if he does, Mike will give him some vallium or something.
As Madda said, acrylics work fine over enamel. I use Games Workshop acrylics quite a bit as well (they are actually made by Citadel) and haven’t had any problems with them at all. I wonder whether something like oil (hand lotion from your hands perhaps?) had gotten on the surface of the enamel. That would prevent the acrylic from adhering and also prevent the ink from working properly.
Once the carrier dries, the only thing you have left is pigment. My guess (however off-base) is that there may be a surface tension problem with the ink (?). You could try adding a couple drops of alcohol or a SMALL drop of dishwashing liquid to your inks and see if that helps things out…
Hey Mike…I really like that Thorazine! [:)]
Gip Winecoff
If you are using inks as a wash, they work best on a gloss finish. They may tend to pool & stain on a flat finish.
Regards, Rick
Aw, he was actually quite civil about it. Here I was hoping I’d get to use the virtual billy club. [:p]
Thanx for all your responses. I really dont know whats happened , I guess Ill just persevere. Ive done the dish washing trick but no joy , its all a bit of a mystery really as it happened on another model too using a diferent colour. . I`ll soldier on and see what I can do but once again thanx for the info.
You mean this one?
When did you become psychotic my friend. [;)]
Mike (Forum Pharmacist) [:D]
You should not have any problem painting acrylics over enamels and vice versa. Just allow the coats to dry VERY WELL before you attempt to paint one over the other. I do wish to inform you of one thing however. The games workshop range of paints is VERY good, but is water based, unlike tamiya and some other acrylic paints. You will need to mix the pant VERY well, so as not to take the paint from the top of the jar which is usually a little heavier with the water content than the thicker stuff on bottom. I’ve had similar problems with the paint not sticking using games workshop paints. They do work, but you will need to have patience, and will sometimes have to apply several coats to get the paint to stick properly. If anything, you may wish to take some other acrylic to paint over the enamel, then paint the games workshop paint over that acrylic.
Hope this helps!
Thanx zokissima I think that may be the problem right there. I do like my citadel paints , theyre pretty nifty.Not a huge range but nice. I tried tamiyas stuff but found it dried too quickly for my glacial painting style. I might invest in some retarder now I know it exists and give them another try tho
I am with styrene in my impression on this. Sounds like asurface Tension problem. Whenever I put a wash of anykind I always add a drop or 2 of dishsoap when I thin it.