From what I have read here on the forum, enamels don’t dry as fast as acrylics. Looking back at the airbrushing I have done with enamels, the item I paint is usally dry to the touch before I take it out of my paint booth (within 5min or so). I get pretty good results(by my eye and standards), but I am wondering if I am doing something wrong?
when i spray enamels i let it cure for around 24 hours.
I let mine sit for about a day to cure as well, but I find that things are smudge proof relatively quick.
Dry to the touch does not necessarily equate to being fully dry.
I would give enamels 24-48 hours drying time before preparing for clear coating for decals.
[dto:]
Depends on brand and whether flat or gloss. Flat enamels dry reasonably quick, the gloss takes forever, especially a thick, wet, glossy coat. Testors is slow setting.
Drying/hardening time depends a lot on absolute humidity. In wet weather gloss takes forever (days), while in dry winter air the flats can be handled pretty quickly after painting.
Hey Mike. Is the enamels becoming a paint of the past? Or is there real reason to use enamel for certain effects. I’ve only used the acrylics since my returns. Can I be missing something positive. Bud
PS Can you tell me what the Tags at the bottom are about?
Bud, some people prefer enamels as they are easier to spray than acrylics for the most part and they tend to “bite” the plastic more so that they adhere better. Other than that I see no advantage to them as you need to use cleaners that are stronger and more toxic than acrylic cleaners. Most use lacquer thinner to clean up enamels as it is inexpensive and cleans very well. I think in a few more years we may see enamels go away as they try and become more “green” and get away from the more toxic paints.
Tags at the bottom? You mean on the bottom of my signature? That is a Badger Airbrush Co. symbol. [:)]
If its the little pictures you mean those are “badges”. Most group build efforts “reward” participants with such a badge as you complete a build for a particular group. Go and take a look in the group build section on here and see if there is a topic that catches your interest[:)]
Enamels and especially the flat ones can feel dry to the touch pretty quickly. It takes alot longer for enamels however to fully cure. Try brushing enamels on a certain part, wait till it is dry to the touch and put another coat on. You will find it is quite easy to wipe away the first layer with the new paint and thus create brush marks showing the plastic underneath.
I usually let the paint cure for 24 hours or more before i handle the model again after using enamels. The gloss paints will take even longer. My preferred brand of acrylics (revell aqua) will fully cure even gloss paints in as little as 4 to 6 hours(!)
Richard
Whoa—if you’re spraying enamels and talk to any “Car guys” who do auto modeling, I can tell you that most GOOD car modelers let their enamels dry for literally WEEKS before they start to sand out the body. Of course, this would be multiple coats sprayed on in usually two light coats with a final heavy “wet coat”, but enamels need to “gas out” before they’re considered “fully” cured.
The rule of thumb is, if you can still smell that “paint” smell with enamels, they’re not fully cured. The gas is still working its way out of them, and until that happens, they’re not “cured”.
Most good car modelers now use urethanes. Much better than enamels if you want real depth and shine. [;)]
Actually, I agree, Mike–enamels are really a “paint of the past” in Auto modeling.
I prefer lacquers. Urethanes are NASTY-bad-poisonous to work around from what I’ve read. Lacquers dry so quick, and they buff out to a high shine.
I can remember when it was thought the more the layers of lacquer the better. 15 to 20 (or more) were not uncommon. By the time I retired I was in the haz-mat response team and a Hazardous materials Specialist. Trying to get the auto shop guys to wear their mask and respirators was a pain, they started to change over eventually since many were getting ill. The paint now-a-days are pretty rough in a lot of ways. Our little shops be pretty mean also. We don’t spray a lot, but some can still give you one heck head ache. Which by the way. Which paint gives the best polished metal look? Bud
All I can say is wow! I just looked at your gallery and I am really impressed. From what I saw and enjoyed I’d have to call you “Modeling’s Norman Rockwell” Thank you Bud.
Hay Jube. ---- Seems i’ve heard that before LOL.[;)] Over in the technique column they are going over the use of food dehydrators to help speed up drying time from days to hours. Hope this helps. Bud
Thanks for all the info and tips everyone. Looks like I wasnt making any mistakes after all 
Assuming that’s mu Gallery you’re talking about?–the original poster doesn’t have a link to one?–I’lll just say “Thank you” for that generous compliment! I’ve been called many things here, but never “Modeling’s Norman Rockwell” lol! [;)]
Agree 100%
I was a car modeler in my other life but now mostly build armor and planes.
Enamel will work and I liked using it on models of older cars, since you can get a very special “soft” shine to it that seems to work well with that age of automobile. As mentioned though, it takes forever to cure and gas out. It’s best to apply in very light coats, 25-27 coats are common. Careful surface prep and a month drying time is what works best for me. If possible, lots of time out in the sunshine. After that, comes the progressive sanding and polishing. If you apply sever heavy, wet coats… you’re scre***.
I prefer lacquer. Again, very light coats but followed by a light sanding every four or five coats. About 10 to 15 coats gives you great full coverage. I go a bit heavy handed with the airbrush on all sharp edges. Although lacquer does dry much quicker than enamel, I still give it at least two weeks drying time so that it’ll harden enough for the sanding / polishing process. The result is a perfectly even, thin and mirror like shine.
Urethane is bad news. Darn thing will kill you. I also stopped using clear coats a long time ago. No matter how good your finish work is, cars always end up looking like candied apples. All right for show cars I guess.
Ok Doog. I clicked on the gallery link call HERE, and seen a lot of wonderful models (armor mostly). Is that your gallery? Bud
That’s mine, Bud–I apologize if you were talking about a different one–I’ve had several people comment on my Fotki gallery, so I thought…[:$] ? ?
Hope you liked what you saw!