Ejection Seats

http://www.ejectionsite.com/

URL to an interesting web site for ejection seats - for those that want to scratch build or detail a seat not offered as an after market item.

As usual the seat I’m looking for is not there. I’m attempting to make a Testors F2H Banshee resemble a model - something Testors (Hawk) forgot to do it[V]. If I could get an after market seat in 1:48 that resembled the Banshee seat I would modify it to suit the need; however, I don’t have a picture of the F2H seat. I can’t find a book that shows seat detail in the Banshee so I’m screwed again.

I will not give up!!!

Help…

Ken

Hey Ken,
Try this on fer size http://www.seatejectcolor.com/seat/sedili/ditte/mcdd/f2h.htm

Looks like Pavala makes a 1/48th seat

Ken
Ive just searched “banshee ejectionseat” on google. There’s a couple of sites on there where others who have gone before have displayed their work. It seems the book to get is:-
Aviation Research, US Navy Ejection Seats, volume I, Memphis Tennessee, Aviation Research, 1990
Failing that Squadron Signal “in action” series on the Banshee evidently has a drawing of the seat
The following page has a couple of through the canopy type shots (every bit helps I suppose!)
http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/AWA1/001-100/walk079_Banshee/walk079.htm

When I started building my F-2H Banshee, I took a seat from the Monogram F-80 and used that as a starting point. The seats are almost the same so converting it wasn’t too hard. How are you going to solve the intake problem? After a lot of work on the kit the intakes and exhaust stopped me from going further. I can’t figure out how to get the complex curves in the intake. I sure would like to finish the kit.

Great site wibhi Thanks

Im building an A4 E skyhawk I took the ejection seat out of a Strike Sagle and the control stick and modified both and put them in My A4. I had to trim down the seat rail and the bottom of the control stick In order to get them to fit but it came out pretty nice. when its finished Ill take some pics and try to post them.

Ps. The strike Eagle was the revel Monogram 1/48 scale kit just in case anyone was woundering.

The main problem with the 1/48 Hawk kit is that it has the XF2H-1 forward fuselage (the F2H-1 had a 14 inch shorter fuselage forward of the wing) and canopy (sort of) grafted on what is something like an F2H-2, which is apparently because it was modeled on the final configuration of XF2H-1 BuNo 99859 including its tip tanks.

The ejection seat drawing in Squadrons F2H Banshee is the same as the one colorized in wibhi2’s web reference. They don’t exactly resemble the seat depicted in the F2H maintenance manual. I’ll see if I can get this on a website to reference.

It turns out that the seat in the US Navy Ejection Seats Vol 1 is the same as the two previously referenced. It is described as “the F2H-1ejection seat”. Although this isn’t consistent with BuNos listed for it which are early F2H-2s, it is in fact also the F2H-1 seat. It also states that there was a “completely redesigned” seat for 123310 through 123313 and 123341 and up. This is it:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v354/ththomason/F2H2.jpg

If I were betting, and making a sort of educated guess, since you’re going to have to either scratchbuild or modify that seat, I’d start with a T-33 seat. A simple bucket with a frame behind it. That’s what those early “human cannonball” seats tended to all look like, with many variations from plane to plane, of course. Human cannonball seats because, instead of rockets for extraction, the early seats used 40 mm artillery shells to blast the poor driver out into the Great Ughknown.
Tom

hey berny13;
I’ve had that same problem with the Academy’s F-111’s and I came up with this solution get some tissue paper and a cap that is approx the size of the front of the turbine engine, then route the tissue paper through the intake opening and get the engine side in the area where it suppose to be an then fabricate bracing around the tissue paper (this will dam the epoxy) then apply 5 minute epoxy on the tussue paper but be very careful not to damage the paper, when the epoxy dries the paper will absorb the epoxy and will be able to sand & paint and the tissue paper will contain the compound curves & keep a seamless intake look, I recommend you try on an old de-funct jet kit first to get the technic down but it’ll make those old non-interior kits look like a million bucks

72cuda

You lost me. My simple mind can’t get a picture of what you are talking about. If you could e mail me detailed instructions and diagrams if possible. Then this mass I have between my ears can get a clear picture. Thanks.