Hello folks. I’m applying decals for the first time ever in my model building (on my Tamiya Sherman). I notice that there are two of each kind of decal on the sheet. I am wondering if this is so that I can apply the decals symmetrically (i.e.- a star on each side of the tank hull, etc.). In looking at the instruction diagrams, I only see a star decal placed on the left side of the hull and turret, but there is no picture of the right side of the tank. Is it just common sense that one is supposed to similarly place stars on the right side, too? Is that the reason doubles of each decal are included? Or do you just receive extra decals in case you err?
I wish that I had first read some of the tips by experienced modelers on decaling. I used red Microsol, but applied too much pressure brushing it on. And it caused part of a star decal to rip. Now, after reading, I know better (that it is not really needed for flat surfaces (just use the blue bottle). This is a great, helpful forum. Thanks for advising.
Broadly speaking, you are correct. US Armour would have markings on both sides.
USAF aircraft of the time wouldn’t have symetrical markings on the top & underneath of the wings.
Traditionally, Decalling is: paint model, apply gloss*, then decals, use Microscale Sol/Set as per instructions, cleanup, and gloss again, then mat or satin finish.
Microsol can be used on any surface. The key is to apply it to the decal quickly and gently, and then leave the decal alone while the Microsol works. You don’t want to keep dabbing at it or trying to smooth out the wrinkles that form. The wrinkles go away on their own.
As far as locating decals and selecting colors, if you have any doubts about what the kit instructions show, do a little research. Tou’ll be surprised by some details.
With armored vehicles in particular, markings may often be assymmetric from side to side due to projections or equipment stowage. As Bill said, a little research or something like a Google image search will often turn up views or at least diagrams showing useful markings placement.
Decals can be very difficult to apply. I think I was better at it as a beginner than I am now! Large ones or very small ones are the worst — I’ve ruined more decals than I care to count. Now, before applying any decals, I first scan the sheets of decals at high resolution and a 1:1 ratio. If you have either an ink jet printer or a colour laser printer, you can print them on decal stock, available from many different companies. I use Experts Choice, and I have a pack of sheets by Kodiak that I haven’t yet tried.
To prevent the ink from running while the decals soak, you have to thoroughly pre-coat them with clear acrylic or lacquer spray.
The only real problem with DIY decals is that you have to use white decal sheets on dark surfaces. If you use clear decal sheets, the dark surface beneath will mute the colours of the decal. But using white decal paper means that you have to trim the decal carefully to avoid having the white substrate show on the model. I’ve had reasonably good luck painting over the remaining white part of the decal with paint matching the colour of the model.
I agree 100% Decal sovents are very aggressive and will literally melt the decals. Do not touch the decals after solvent is applied. I did that once and the decal fell apart.
This Tamyia car kit has numerous decals simulating carbon fiber. First I tried MicroSet to help the decals conform the the curved surfaces. That didn’t work. Next I tried Tamyia’s Mark Fit which soltened the decals enough the conform to the curved surfaces. The Mark Fit is not as aggressive as MicroSol.
