Hi guys and gals,
Was there any huge advantage in using this dry transfer decal over the wet ones ?
I notice when using the wet one is that the surface must be glossy first, otherwise if applied over a flat surface the decal may look shinny after dry.
Now, when using the dry transfer decal, should it be treated the same as the wet ones ?
Advantages, disadvantages, dislike, preference, etc, etc ?
Ben
Yes, a huge advantage. I love dry transfers. The results are much better and much, much easier than waterslide. No silvering! No edges! No drying time! Just tape the marking where you want it, burnish it on, and apply a clear coat and whatever weathering you want. Simple and easy, and they look painted on. I hear people have even used them successfully over zimmerit.
If I can find the dry transfers I need for the project I’m doing, I will use them every time. The only disadvantage I can think of is availability.
With either dry transfers or waterslide decals, you should use a clear coat over them to help “seal” them and blend them into the overall finish.
You can’t silver a dry transfer! that’s my main difference. You can buy scale eyes in dry transfer, so you don’t have to paint them! Dry transfers, usually a bit more expensive. Wet deca;s, easier for me to use! I’m sure ther’es more.
Archer makes a great line of dry transfers as does Andrea.
Archer is available from www.ausfwerks.com
The expense really isn’t a factor if you consider time involved to gloss coat the decal area, apply, micro sol, overcoat, and weather. If for some reason you mess up the decal with wet slide, its a bear to remove it. With dry transfer, a little scotch tape will lift it right off with no fuss or muss to the rest of the area.
dry transfers must be put in exactly the right spot the first time-- plan ahead—used em on my 1/16 tiger – i love em – from archer- the small extra price in my opinion is worth it— treadwell
Absolutely. But that’s very easy to do with cellophane tape…just tape it firmly exactly where you want it, and burnish it onto the surface. You also have to make sure that you’ve completely burnished it onto the surface, or parts of the marking will lift off when you pull up the clear film it comes on. I’ve never actually had any problems with that, even from the very first time I used them.
MIG Productions also makes some very nice sets of dry transfers.
Thanks for the helpful tips guys.
I guess it is time to those dry transfer decal soon.
Ben
Who is the definitive source for dry transfers?
Archer. I like them alot, but they are costy. I guess when you factor in time and effort, they make it up in no time. I need to get more myself.