Well, I’ve been working on this for the better part of 10 months now. This is the Dragon 1/35 Sd.Kfz.138 Marder III Ausf. M [Initial Production] featuring the Griffon Models Super Detail set. The set is a review for IPMS, and is a royal PITA!!! It features a lot of workable hinges [only 4 of the ones on the model are functional] as well as a level of detail that is almost too high. A lot of the kit pieces were good enough not to be replaced. Likewise, some of the kit PE that is supposed to be replaced, wasn’t. In total, this kit has 12 PE sheets from Griffon and 2 sheets from Dragon, as well as a turned aluminum barrel and turned brass [multipiece with PE] muzzle brake from Griffon. Also featured in the fighting compartment is turned brass ammunition from various sources. The kit is very nice, and I’d actually like to do one out of the box. The interior is very well done and packed with detail. The Griffon set, well, I can’t really say what I want to about this, cause its not in compliance with the forum rules Lets see, this is the first time I have used such an extensive PE set. The first attempt at a white wash, and my first use of Dragon Magic tracks. the white wash was done with oil paints, un-thinned, brushed on similar to a dry brush, but heavier. Then a clean dry brush was used to blot it, which blended it a bit more. Then some washes, filtering, and some streaking. Overall, I have to say I am beyond pleased with the outcome. There were several times I was ready to set fire and blow up the whole thing. I cut myself about 6 times. Lost pieces about 16 times. Went cross eyed about 60 times. And yelled profanities of every shape, size, and language about 6000 times. Now I want o build something easy, with no AM, no PE, and no WORK. Sadly, it’s not gonna happen…
Anyway, here is my little gem. Comments and critiques are welcome.
Well done Rob. You certainly have more patience then I. The work paid off. I like the color and subtle weathering, but the rear-idler disturbs me. It appears to be setting too low. I’ve built the Tamiya kit, and it rides much higher. Also it’s been widely observed that the black on the muzzle would be almost non-existant. An easy fix if you so choose.
Thanks for the comments. On the muzzle, I know it doesnt normally get that blackened. However, I just didnt like it with just the white wash and a light soot. For some reason it just looked odd. On the Idler, thank you. Its actually not glued in, and I forgot to put the tension in for the pictures. The mount isnt the best, so I leave it un-tensioned to avoid bending the attachment to the hull out of alignment. For pictures, contests, etc, I just have to rotate it to the higher position and add the tension.
Looks nice Rob. A curious item i noticed are the empty brass cartridges. They most likely wouldn’t be placed back into the ammo holders – and certainly not in front of the live ammo rounds, no?
The Griffon “monster set” certainly isn’t for the faint of heart, congrats on getting through it for this build! I tend to agree with Roy about the spent brass…while it was common for tank crews to put the empties back into the racks, the AT crews usually just threw them over the side since they had limited space to begin with and in a sustained engagement would be rearming frequently from their attendant ammo carriers.
My opinion of this project is: I’m sure glad that you didn’t blow it up but saved it for me to gaze over and it gives me a goal to reach when I build mine.
Thanks guys. On the shells, I really wasnt sure. I had seen a pic on the internet that showed a couple spent rounds in the racks. But you all make very valid points. And since they arent glued in, its an easy fix.
Dupes, I did think about some pigments, but alas, I’m out! They are weathered with some rust pigments and pastels, but I agree with you. If the tank is all dirty and such, the tracks do look a little clean. But since I have some work to do to make her pretty for a photo shoot [for a magazine article!!], I might add a little dirt to the running gear.
My first thought when looking at it was, “Oh no! He screwed up the idler placement!”—PHEW! Glad to hear that it was just a temporary thing! How about a picture of it now with the idler in the correct spot?
I give you credit for going full-bore on the Griffon set! WOW, that sounds like a bear of a build! It really has paid off in a stunning model though!
Hey guys, Here is a pic with the idler rotated to the upper position and taking the slack. Thats actually the highest position the kit allows, though I dont think it is right. Also, there is some dirt on the tracks and road wheels. I dont want to go too much, because then it hides the details. I also redid the barrel. After looking through pics, the black wasnt right. And some empty ammo was removed. This is the only pic of it right now that I’ve cleaned up. All the others I was told not to correct yet.
The rework effort has paid off Rob. The idler on the 38t family usually was level or near-level with the top of the last road wheel so that the track sagged onto the road wheel and passed to the idler. Judging by the latest pic, you’ve got it pretty close to the right position. [tup]
Lets see, this is the first time I have used such an extensive PE set. The first attempt at a white wash, and my first use of Dragon Magic tracks. the white wash was done with oil paints, un-thinned, brushed on similar to a dry brush, but heavier. Then a clean dry brush was used to blot it, which blended it a bit more. Then some washes, filtering, and some streaking. Overall, I have to say I am beyond pleased with the outcome. There were several times I was ready to set fire and blow up the whole thing. I cut myself about 6 times. Lost pieces about 16 times. Went cross eyed about 60 times. And yelled profanities of every shape, size, and language about 6000 times. Now I want o build something easy, with no AM, no PE, and no WORK. Sadly, it’s not gonna happen…
