We agree that the effects produced are indeed different. I actually use both methods myself but in the case of the Marder article, only the one method was employed because of the effect I wanted on the three-tone finish. For single tone finishes such as my Pz III N, I used both methods. On the Bison I, I only used the primary dot method for example because of the dark tones of the camo pattern.
I also agree that if Future (and dull coat for that matter) are applied too heavily, it will have an adverse effect on the finish. I can only speak from my personal use, but every coat I apply no matter if it’s paint or Future or dullcoat, is done in very very light passes to avoid precisely that. I apply dullcoat via the rattlecan and this allows for a good deal of “stand-off” to achieve the desired effect as a mist coat vs. a single heavy pass (also easier to apply and zero cleanup afterwards).
It’s also not 100% necessary to use a dullcoat with the methods I use to achieve a flat finish over the Future. Because the dots I work with are flat enamel paints (vs. oils which I understand would produce a different sheen), the effect of the filter is to render the surface flat. The only reason I spray a flat lacquer coat is for long-term protection of the model finish as a personal preference and also to insure that areas where I’m going to apply pigments have a consistent “tooth” to them.
I’m always clear to state that my methods are used because I work with enamels. Acrylics are a totally different beast and I agree that some methods commonly used with enamels aren’t needed with acrylics and vice versa. [;)]
I think that it’s a good thing for this subject that we had this discussion–when I posted my tutorial, I never thought there would be a need for so much additional explanation or clarification, but apparently, it exists.
And the possibility of using it over enamels, Future coating, etc, never entered my mind. So, once again; a very productive discussion, IMO! [:D]
For what it’s worth I use turpenoid. It works really well with the oils, but won’t really touch the model. Also the turpenoid lets the oiols dry quite a bit faster. Using most thinners the oils can take weeks to dry, but with turpenoid you could do 2 or 3 applications in one day if yer careful. Oil paints tend to be VERY expensive at art or craft stores. I can’t even find the tiny tubes for less then 12 or 13 bucks. Yes a little goes a long way but when yer talking 4 or 5 colors or more, you can hit well up over 100 bucks. I just can’t justify that kind of cost. I went to Fred Meyer(Kroger for the rest of you), and Walmart will probably have these as well(althuogh I am really loathe to send anyone to that hole), but I picked up a box of 12 Artist Oils for 6.99. Best part is, it’s not all bright primary colors, these are more earthy and natural in color. Perfect for weathering. May or may not be any use for the two blues but everything else in there can be used. These things have more uses then one could imagine.
This is just my .02 and a helpful hint that will hopefully save someone 100 bucks or so in cash. Now that I think about it, yes these oils are available at Walmart. The name on them is Art Advantage.
doog - Thank you for taking the time to post an answer and the enclosed information. I have a lot of enamel paints (also use them to paint wingie things) but I do understand acrylic paints have come a long way in the last several years, will give them a try at some point for sure.
bill - Thank you for the detailed information and help. As the saying goes, the devil is in the details… I appreciated not having to re-invent the wheel! I have started to keep detailed logs of my builds, will also take pics of the dots (and pattern of) and the final effect. In a few builds (hopefully!) Ill have enough experience to determine the optimal variables for a specific effect. Thanks again!
Finally, if you are in my corner of the world (NE USA), all the local Michaels are having a Memorial day weekend sale, incuding Winsor & Newton oil tubes (the 37ml/1.25 oz size) for 4$ each (not all colors available though).
Cheers all, and a sharp salute to all vets in here on this Memorial Day weekend!
Wow, I didn’t think my thread would turn into a huge discussion. Thanks for the tips. I’ll have to take some time to read through everything. I managed to pick up some taklon brushes on my run to the hobby store. Now I’ve got to find time and money to get the oil paints now.
I would like to thank you for the easily understood tutorial on dot filtering. Very easy and yes it does add interest to panels. I recently switched to acrylics and the only problem I had was my impatience. After suffering thru a horrible build, trying a new method of “painting” was refreshing. Thanks again Doog.
Bill,
I would like to thank you for a more in depth understanding of the use of the dot filtering method. I’ve used it to add highlights. Incredible control! I can apply the paint exactly where I want it, then blend it where I want it to go.
Thank you both for a good heated discussion on this subject.
The beautiful thing about our hobby is the versatility and “many paths” achievable to reach the same destination. Glad the discussion was helpful for you. [tup]
I’m glad that there was this topic mention again, since I don’t want the same mistake as my hezter, and I was planning to do it on the flakpanzer.
Good news, the hezter oven clean has work, its back to square one, and using decals from the hanomag and a WW1 aircraft I should replace the old decals.