Well, I’m sitting here just about broken-hearted and frustrated in the extreme. Ijust tried to clear coat the my Modified’s body here, using Tamiya Clear, and here’s what happened;
A light sanding of the part shows that it has indeed attacked the paint beneath…
The same thing has happened to themain body, although not as extreme. And though the body was painted in Krylon (the pink hue) and Tamiya (the Black and the Gold) the results were the same on both surfaces–but only in certain areas. I had washed the bodywith dishwasing liquid last night before going to bed, and set it out to dry. So I don’t think there are any oils or contaminants on it?
Strangely, the same thing happened THREE TIMES with just the Krylon when spraying it. I am still wondering if it has to do with heating the spray bottle before spraying it? It’s about 60 degrees in the house, and I heated up the Tamiya spray can for about 3-4 minutes in warm water.
I can’t figure this out. It’s heartbreaking and really p***ing me off! If the rest of the body underneath hadn’t turned out so well, I’d be tempted to give this a “flat” finish–as in under my boots! As it is, it’s in the ol’ “Simple Green” bath again…[banghead]
Anyone have any clue as to what is going on here?
[sigh]
Did you wash the bare plastic, or prime, before painting? I had a similar issue happen on an older AMT kit where the plastic just repelled the paint. Just wouldn’t stick, no matter how carefully I cleaned it. Even wiping it down with straight alcohol didn’t get the release agent off the plastic. I ended up doing a light sanding and primed with Tamiya grey before the paint would adhere.
Man, that sux Doog ! Warming the cans is always a good way to improve flow, as far as I’ve ever heard, no problems attached. Maybe that Tam clear is a bit different. I don’t guess it’s a prep issue as your color-coats looked fine, but clearly they reacted with each other…Hey you’ve discovered crackle-finish ! ok, not funny. If you start all over I would go with the above advice and lightly sand the whole deal, prime, re-paint and use a totally diffferent clear-coat, as I suspect the formula is off in that can you have(best guess)
Thanks for your responses, guys, but I don’t think either of those issues is it. Fort, the plastic was primed with Tamiya Fine White primer, one o fthe best there is, and then accpeted the paint just fine–in fact, painting was finished; all I had to do was clear coat it. Why it attacked BOTH the Krylon AND the Tamiya paint is beyond me!
Secondly, there was no residue of anything as far as I know on the finish. I washed it with dishwashing detergent (grease cutting) before painting, and rinsed thoroughly.If I don’t figure this out, it’s going to be a sincere problem if I paint this body again and have this happen.
Karl, that really sucks! Perhaps you should get away from the rattle can and go back to the ab, using flat coats, and then finish with a gloss coat. I would hate to see you clean the car up, trying the same procedure and end up with the same results as before.
How much time are you allowing between the color coats and the clear coats? Mixing brands of paints in multicoat finishes can be a real crap shoot! Sorry to see the disaster.
What you have there is a classic example of lacquer over emamel krinkle. Krylon paint is fast drying enamel.The only fix is to strip and start over.If you mix your own pink in lacquer you should be fine using your other colors over top. The safest clear out there is Dupont 480S,it goes on safley over anything, I’ve used it over emamel, lacquer,acrylic,and decals with no problem at all, I hear it comes in rattle cans. Try an auto body jobber that carrys Dupont and you’ll be good to go.
I agree with the above post^^^your problem is incompatibility…the tamiya clear is too “hot” for the enamel,and inturn, is causing the reaction that you see. The clear is not actually reacting with your primer, it is actually the reaction occuring between your color and clear coats that is causing theproblem.
I am in autobody, and I paint fairly often, and from time to time, you can try to shortcut the procedure,but more often than not, you get problems like yours…
You can try a coat or two of future over your color coat, and after that has dried, use your tamiya clear.
i recommend using dupli-color paint shop BSP-300 clear. it comes in a 1 quart can and can be airbrushed. its all pre thinned. just load it up and spray. it works over any paint, enamel, acrylic, lacquer . Ive used it on all and there is also no re-coat time window so you can put on as many coats as you want at any time be it 10 mins or 5 months lol.
and its sands and polishes polishes out awesome. and only cost 20 bucks!! should last you at least 20 or 30 cars if you do 3 coats… you can find it at stores like Napa, Canadian tire etc…
Thank you, guys, for all the input. However, I have to ask you this–I have had the identical thing happen when spraying the Krylon OVER the same Krylon coat! Like, putting two coats on, you know? I’ve had the Krylon craze the Krylon just the same, but not as bad.
Could that be an example of too MUCH paint on top of paint?
I figured maybe that’s what it was–incompatibility–but the fact that the Krylon crazed the Krylon makes me wonder what the heck else could be causing this?
I didn’t know that Krylon was an enamel–man, it’s one fast-curing enamel for sure!
The drying time was about a good week, and it was hard enough to properly rub out a bit. It’s not like I put it on the next day.
70mach1, I"m going to look for that Dupont clear! I can’t get Future around here, for some reason. I have a small few containers of it that someone sent me, but I"m not sure how much I’d need for a whole car like this.
The paint you laid down wasn’t fully cured. That’s why it occurred with Krylon over Krylon, and in this case Tamiya over Krylon. The underlying paint reacts with the fresh coat and “lifts”. Krylon is considered a “modified” enamel. Modified in the sense that it dries quite a bit faster.
Tamiya clear can be, and is a real m[censored]r to use.I will not use Tamiya clear over anything but Tamiya paint. Even then I allow the colorcoat at least a week to cure first. Some say it’s safe if used within a certain amount of time,(recoat time) but I don’t risk it.
You are used to an airbrush which puts paint on a heck of a lot thinner than a spray can. Spray bombs require different techniques.
Heating a spray can does help. Ambient temps seem ok. What really affects your finishes is humidity.
Thanks, Wayne—that would seem to make more sense, why the Krylon lifted too.
Man, I thought I’d let it dry long enough? It was hard enough to polish out a bit.
Well, perhaps I’ll be ok–I picked up some of that Dupont 300 stuff that JT recommended. I’m going to do some tests before I even tryit out for real. D’amn, but I wish that these finished were as easy as the Armor ones!
Thanks for anyone who lent some advice and knowledge, and thanks for all the suggestions!
Prolly ‘cause it’s cheap & usually works fine ? I use one Krylon product alot I don’t see mentioned ever in modeling–Krylon Matte Finish #1311-- It;s just an artists’ spray fixitive I’ve been using since long ago doing pencil drawings. Not really a dull-coat, it’s semi-matt, but holds down various paint & pigment layers for further work. Works great to seal Tamiya paint so It’s not damaged during continued work…
~Doog~ was just reading Brett Green’s article in the new(Dec) MMI , his kfz 251 Ausf D build and he’s recommending " Tamiya TS-13 Clear straight from the can" (that’s the one, right? Lucky # 13 ? ) he goes on " I have used this product a couple times recently, and am impressed with it’s hard, glossy finish and fast drying time, Having a laquer base, you can use either oil or acylic washes over it too" He’s using it over a 2-tone camo of Tamiya acylic airbrushed and “two thin coats of Tan Filter” over that. No info about drying time. He’s just using the TS-13 as decal-prep and he’s using it over Tamiya I just mention all this 'cause I had just been reading him liking this product, just as you are swearing it off. No doubt Brett is a very good modeller(though he did kinda blow it on that finish for his Traction 11 on the cover month before last, that was kind of a de-bockle, he describes the struggle in that article) Personnaly, I’ve found gloss coats to never be that easy or trouble free, from the auto-shop, to the wood-shop to the model-shop, and Future is just about the best bet(even if plenty of guys have had plenty of trouble even with that ! )
Jim, in the auto modeling world, it’s amazing what a huge diversity of paints that guys use–some even use straight-out auto paint from auto manufacturers and stores.
I did a LOT of research into paints before starting into doing cars, and am still learning. Krylon is indeed cheap, and comes in a huge palette of colors. As long as you lay down a good primer, it’s a wonderfully easy-to-use paint that dries super-fast, and polishes beautifully to a hi-gloss finish without even a clear coat.
The only reason I used a clear coat was to gloss up the Tamiya Black, which was a but inconsistent in shine.
You can get a big can of Krylon for under $3.00, and in literally dozens of colors. It sprays on easliy, and cures quickly, I’m still not 100% sure what caused this disaster, but it wasn’t the fault of the Krylon. It has something to do with either me polishing it and leaving residue, or something similar. INterestingly, this never happened when I was just shooting coat after coat–ONLYwhen I would sand the coats in between. I’m starting to think that I would be best to just shoot three coats and THEN sand and polish out.
Indy, no, I’m not “swearing off” Tamiya Gloss. Something here in the mix is not working well together, and I just have to figure it out.
I used the Tamiya Gloss over my McLaren M16 Johnny Rutherford indy car. and it looked great! That was painted with Tamiya paints. so I willl just have to use it over Tamiya paints.
