I recently applied several decals and after a few minutes of drying they all just fell off. NEver had this problem before. Maybe it is an aold model set (Italerri), but I never heard of decals going bad. Here is my typical proccess. Soak decal for about 20 seconds in water till it can slide off backing paper. Slide decal into place, then pat excess water with a damp paper towel. I just read a few other posts that soaking th decal to long can remove the adhesion and also that decals on mat paint might not work. I was applying a decal to olive drab paint which is pretty much a mat finish. I’ve never used any other chemicals for applying decals before. Anyone have any advice?
Also, it is advisable to apply a coating after applying decals or does it matter?
More likely a case of bad decal from manufacture. Mostly what I encounter is old academy kit with thick decal which can be tricky in sticking on surface.
It is always better to spray a finishing coating on yr kit after the decal to seal it up…
Decals definitely age. First problem is loss of adhesive quality. Second, with really old ones, they may yellow.
Then, old decals get brittle and full of cracks. When you soak them in water they just disintegrate. Microscale makes a stuff to coat old decals with that prevents the disintegration, but does not help adhesion. Use of decal setting solution does help adhesion with old decals.
Nowadays, with inkjet decal papers working so well, I always scan a set of decals into my computer before building an older kit, so I can recreate the decals if needed.
Applying a coating on top won’t do anything to help the adhesion of the decal.
Of late, I’ve been playing around with Gunze “Mr Mark setter” which seems to be a combination decal setting solution and a very mild adhesive which helps decals of this nature to stick. I believe it also allows you to apply decals to flat painted surfaces without silvering (though I need to do some more testing to confirm this).
I suppose it’s possible to make something similar by mixing a little white glue with water (haven’t tried it but I’ve heard of it being done).
Also my question regarding an afterspray was more in regards to protecting the decal after application. (This may not be a decal topic per-say). I seems to me that if you have a finished model, that spraying something across different paint surfaces, clear plastic, and decals would possible ruin the look of a model.
Silvering is an effect where air gets trapped beneath the decal and shows through the decal film as shiny/whitish spots, hence the term “silvering” This is more prevalent when applying decals to flat painted surfaces due to the irregularity of the surface. for this reason it’s recomended to always apply decals to gloss painted surfaces.
Applying an overall clear coat, whether it’s gloss or flat (depending on the result you want) is quite common, though one should always mask off clear parts before doing so.
Often, people will apply a gloss coat, either overall or just “spot” applications to the areas where the decals will be placed before applying decals and then flat coat when the decals are dry.
When using most setting solutions, the decals must be applied to a gloss surface. Decal solutions often cause the decals to shrivel and then lay down as the solution dries. This requires a slick gloss surface, as the irregular surface of a flat finish will often cause drag, resulting in the decal not laying down fully before it dries completely, leaving it wrinkled.
Mr Mark Setter is kind of a Decal glue, you apply it before the decal. WARNING: most of the times you CAN’T reposition the decal it grabs fast. So make sure your position is spot-on.
Mr Mark Softer is a solution that will soften the decal and make it fit snugly to the model and engraved details. Most of the times Mr Mark Softer is all you need.
Micromark makes their own versions of the above and I heard that the Us solution at times give probs with japanese decals and vice-versa. Just what I heard.
Yes, using those solutions you can apply a decal to matt finishes without silvering.
When using Mr Mark Setter, you can, to an extent, use a paintbrush moistened with water to carefully lift a corner of the decal and allow some water underneath to “re-float”: the decal to move it - the solution will still be effective unless you really flood it with water, but yes, this stuff is very tenacious and grabs the decal almost instantly and glues it to the spot. If using this stuff and your decal folds up on itself while you’re trying to move it, it’s usually toasted.
Mr Mark Softer can be very aggressive to certain types of decals (as mentioned, usually the Japanese made ones) - it literally melts these into the painted surface, while other types can be more or less inert.