In yet another case of AMD, I’ve been looking at my current project, a 1/72 A6M2-N Rufe, and thinking it would look really cool to put a couple of pieces of hypodermic needle tubing inside the holes for the wing cannons for a more three-dimensional look.
Hypodermic tubing is strong stuff (it has to be!). I have to use my Xuron photoetch shears to get a smooth straight-edged cut, but that also results in a flattened “oval” shaped tube end that is quite noticeable. I’ve tried rounding it back out by shoving a pointed straight pin inside the opening with limited success. Anyone cut this stuff another way that doesn’t result in it getting squashed in the process?
Sure! I use an abrasive cut-off wheel in my Dremel. You do have to dress the cut end with needle files, but the wheel doesn’t deform the tubing as a shear would.
I used to use the dremel cut-off wheel until I discovered the jewelers saw with a very fine blade. You will still have to dress the edges with a fine file.
Some really good methods here… So I’m going O/T… I prefer to use stretched Q-tip handles, with small wire inserted to keep 'em straight (they tend to curl after a few weeks if you don’t). Only need the wire if the barrels (or blast tubes, like on a P-47) are prominent… Plus, you can vary the sizes much more easier than you can with metal. Simply vary the amount of stretch, the same way you’d do antennas and such…
The other method I use is Evergreen styrene-coated wire. I cut the wire, then roll the plastic under the blade down to the metal, then slide the styrene down the wire a bit, leaving the hollow “muzzle-end” exposed. You then apply cement and you’re done, plus it’s a styrene-to-styrene joint… These are especially effective for short blast-tubes and barrels (a la F4F, P-51, Fw 190 etc.), and work well in 1/48 and 1/32-35 for both cannons and MGs, depending n the wire selected…
Far cheaper than medical sharps (and safer too, for those that are prone to actually putting their life’s blood into their work.)… [H]