I am just about ready to paint my Leopard C2 Mexas, but want to create an anti-slip surface on the turret.
I know there are anti-slip products such as Gesso that can be applied and stippled on, but I don’t like the looke after as it does look a little un-natural in my opinion.
I was wondering if the following technique would work.
Using Micro Mask, to mask off the areas that I don’t want the anti-slip to cover. (ie. such as bolts, anntenna pods, latches and so on.
Take white glue and spread it on the areas to receive the anti-slip surface. Sprinkle some fine/coarse sand on top and let dry.
Once dry remove the micro mask.
But I was wondering if I get some white glue on the micro mask, if that will affect being able to remove the rubber texture when done.
Also if when I paint using acrylics, would the white glue have an effect on the paint or the created anti-slip texture come off during airbrushing, weathering and also over time, would the texture just simply come off?
Has anyone tried this before.
You might want to try mixing baking soda into the paint. It gives an interesting texture and you don’t have to worry about incompatability since you’re using the actual paint.
I used to add either baking soda or talcum powder into paint to get a flat paint, back in days before hobby paints came in flat colors. It did have some texture, especially with the baking soda, so I endorse Jay Jay’s suggestion.
Also, I have glued down fine sand paper over flat areas to simulate anti-skid. On aircraft wing walkways, where the anti-skid is black, the black sandpaper was left unpainted. I have painted sandpaper areas with a thin coat of paint where anti-skid surfaces in other colors was needed.
I am not sure sandpaper would be a godd idea for my case as there are a alot of irregular areas and other areas on top of the turret that I don’t want to have the coating.
I would like to try the baking soda, but doesn’t it dissolve with the liquid of the paint?
I was also thinking of putting on a coat of Mig Pigment fixture and the spreading some pigment over on top. Looking at the coarseness of light dust pigment it looks perfect size. After I would just paint the OD green over it so the particles would just be the same color.
I always use enamels or lacquers. Not sure about acrylics- I suppose the water base might dissolve it. Try a little test on scrap.
You could also try using either liquid cement to soften the plastic, and then stippling it, or use Mr Surfacer, applying it and stippling it with a stiff utility brush.
Try thinned down white glue and then sprinkle cinnamon on the area. It works great, do a test on some scrap. It’s great for 1/35 scale.
HeavyArty has a tutuorial somewhere in the armor forum of how he did his and it’s phenomenal. I tried using liquid mask on mine and I couldn’t get it all up , I would advise using as much tape as possible to mask
Works really well. Looks good under paint. Masking is no more complicated than what you have already described. Doesn’t interact with cured liquid masking agents.
