I have read in the techniques section that people use correction fluid to fill gaps etc.I think this was mentioned on aircraft fuselage`s.
I have trouble using fillers and putty etc,i always use to much and end up marring detail etc.
I tried some correction fluid on scrap piece and got on quite well has it seemed to be easy to sand.Will this be ok for small gaps in say,hull and deck sides and around handles etc OR is this too soft for AFV use.
Hmmm…don’t know about that, but I can say that if you’re having a problem with Squadron putty, try diluting it into a thinner paste by diluting it with Testor’s liquid cement. Then you can aply it easily with a glue brush. Works like a charm.
In addition to thinning the putty as suggested above, which helps immeasurably, you can use masking tape to mask off the areas where you don’t want it to go. If you brush it on (as suggested above) to the level of the masking tape, when you remove the tape you should have a perfect paper-thin layer of putty over your seam which will be very easy to clean up.
I’ve heard of this method too but for me, why chance a new material when a cheap and long lasting alternative is easily at hand. Bondo auto body putty. Comes in a huge tube – costs like $4. Comes pretty thin, can be thinned further using liquid cement. Sands and feathers beautifully.
An example, I used it both as a gap filler and as weld beading on my M31B1 TRV. It’s the red-orange stuff:
I’ve used correction fluid successfully in car modeling. it dries fast sands well, and in my experience is unaffected by hotter paints like 1:1 auto primer.
That being said I use it only for small areas, like pinholes in resin.
Bondo, or the equivalent, is my choice for larger areas as I prefer the two part putties.
Baking soda and super glue will fill small gaps. Fill the gap with baking soda, wipe away the excess, put a drop of superglue on the baking soda. The baking soda will wick up the CA. Repeat as needed. Dries immediately, usually doesn’t need sanding, but is completely sandable if required.
[:)]
Tamiya also has a very liquid glue. Comes in clear bottle with green cap. It’s primary uses is to fill gap.
Other thing can use to fill gap; Mr Surfacer 500. Just use a little then thinned it with lacquer, then use capilary action to fill gaps.
Ben
I use correction fluid a lot. It dries fast, and is easy to sand. In fact, there are situations where you don’t have to sand it, just wipe the excess away with a cotton bud dipped in isopropanol - good for preserving raised detail.
That said, while its good at filling irregularities:
it’s not so good for filling bigger-than hairline gaps. For that, I prefer to use CA and accelerator, and/or scrap plastic. If there are any surface irregularities remaining, that’s when I use correction fluid:
Cheers,
Chris.