Gary-
I’m lovin’ it! I think I’m gonna try a “Frankenstein” build like this one of these days. [8-]
Hi Pheonix,
Thanks for the kind words. If the Mistel you mention is the DML one, enjoy the bomb and trolley, cause you wont like the 262, or at least I didnt.
As to the HortenSach HoSa Y.Cn.U.C (think car no, plates), this started life as a PM kit which compared to the Revell issue of the 229 was a loss. I was in my cupboard, going through my stash eating pizza when I put the kits bits on the tray/plate? and a light bulb went on. A 6" disc of 60thou sandwhiched between the two kit halves and this was the result. Never did build the Revell kit.
Filler is two part epoxy putty, Milliput by choice with the endless corections,holes,dings,cracks etc filled by painting on a mixture of Humbrols Liquidpoly and Greenstuff. Im one of those people that gets filler everywhere and this lets me control it better. It also speeds up the setting times and it dosnt chip/flake so much when your working on it.
With regards to Ufos the only real one I know of is from an article in RAF Flying review that I have floating around somewhere built by a French guy I think. Ill try and dig it out if you like
regards Gary[8-]
Hi Eddie,
Interesting site that, Might be worth paying more attention too, but what is it about this FSM site that people seem so upset about? Everyone seems kinda friendly to me.
Thanks for the kind words and plug. I didnt reallising I was creating a new verb, it was just a play on names and what you seem to do so well. Like my name read backwards. People used to say I had mullard this or that, but I think I shall still use the term “Millering” to define the act of " to destroy so as to create something better" if thats ok with you?.
regards Gary[8-]
Written in a rush and edited to make more sense.
Hi All,
Something about the camo finish on the TL has been bugging me ever since I took the masking tape off. Didnt know what it was but it did. Until today when I went into my cupboard and it hit me.
Several years ago I did a paint job on a friends bonnet/hood. It was a desert mural and I have a picture of it stuck on my wall. The hills on the mural are just like the black edges to the camo finish. Well that was it. Like RadMax I wasnt sure about the stripes with the squiggles so its going for a repaint, but just before its stripped and for a laugh…
regards Gary[8-]
So what your saying is the 262 leaves something to be desired.
BTW about the 109Z. I may not have been too clear. I think he meant that all 4 had radiators in them, but the inner 2 did not open up.
See I liked that camo. I thought it looked like a late war night fighter camo. I may have used a different color on the side like black green rlm 70 or black gray rlm 66 (I know it’s an interior color), or even dark brown rlm 61 rarely seen late war color. I thought other than alot of contrast between the upper and lower it looked quite good. I have seen late war fighters with similer camo. If you can’t paint luftwaffe camo anymore you can always take up landscape painting[:)]. It look like something that would be painted on a side of a 70’s van here in the states.
Hi again Pheonix
Like a lot of Trimaster, Dragon, etc kits this is one that looks great in the box. Its level of detail is far superior in my opinion to Tamiya, but when youve removed a lot of that detail just putting the thing together then it seems a waste. In this kit they have remoulded the fuselage to give a cockpit less moulding and, as this is actually thicker than the original, this fits together so much better. Ive now either built or in the process of building 5 Dragon 262s and have been unsuccesful in matching up the fuselage & undercart assembly to the wings so that the undercart legs fix square or paralell to each other. With the Mistel, if the models are shown as one unit this is not important until you try to fix the undercart doors. I eventually fitted small tabs around the edges and joined the doors to these but this still left a lot of clearing up. It surely wouldnt have cost much more to add a small sprue with ALL the doors moulded in the closed position. Altho its off topic heres some pics that I hope show what I mean. By the way as the planefuselages fitted really badly around the cockpit and tail, I closed up this cockpit and made this the bomb and thebomb` into the plane, if that makes sense.
Back to the TL, Im probably going to go somthing like the Go229Rad in camo style or maybe a custom job of air battles. Just kidding.
Regards Gary[8-]
PS
A friend of mine whos visiting, and reading over my shoulder, as I type this says Im adding to many off topic pix to the post, but personally I always feel 1 pictures worth a 1,000 words so I will go my own way unless people out there tell me otherwise. You know who you are.
So let have a vote.
Don`t be the silent majority let me know how you feel
Approve [^]press here
Disapprove [V]press here
Hi All,
Stripped and repainted model and much prefer this scheme but mistakenly used the kit decals and now have to decide leave it or what. Nobodies complained about pictures yet so heres some more
Models painted in Tamiya Sky and Blackgreen (Thanks Pheonix for the dark colour idea.)
Note to Mr Miller.
Subjct “Whatifmodelers”
Please give more of a warning next time you advise on a unknown site. I now have so many ideas buzzing around that only one life time may not be enough. Now my wife moans that if Im not in my cupboard then Im on the `puter. Thanks a bunch.[:D]
Regards all Gary[8-]
Gary, you know we love pictures here!
The plane looks great! I like that scheme a little more than the original! Don’t worry too much about the decals, it looks so cool!
HEEEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLP!
edited
Im considering adding a longer/larger retractable tailwheel some thing like the one shown on the FiSk 199 below. Originally I was going to fit the TL with a long tailwheel as used on late 109s by the rudder post, similar to the early 262`s, but have been pondering with the idea of fitting a longer one mid length of the fuselage. The 262 was changed to a nosewheeled tricycle undercart as the jet flow interfeared with airflow over the tail as well as chucking up debris against the airframe
Now on the FiSk it was jettisoned after take off so as to allow clearance for the bomb, but I thought of cutting the fuselage roughly where the D is and building a box to receive the tailwheel and associated doors.
Ive looked at cross sections and cutaways of the 109 and the only internal items here are the radios which could be moved in real life but would the airframe take the modification. Yes I know its a whatif or as I call it a Willis whif` but I like to keep things reasonably practical and realistic.
regards Gary[8-]
Gary, it seems to me that a tailwheel that large may work on the 262 because the engines aren’t on the fuselage line, so your bird might suffer from some catastrophic tailwheel failures at takeoff. Just my idea…
Gary,
Yea, the same thing happened to me when I went over there. Lots of good folks and good ideas about.[:D]
Your bird is looking outstanding! The paint work is exceptional![8D]
Eddie
Ok, I like that camo even better then the first one. It does look a little more typical luftwaffe.
Short answer to your tail wheel question, yah it can most likely be done.
Long meanless answer below, you can skip this unless you really want to know. you asked garyallum[}:)] I blame you! some are interesting in the stuff others could care less.
if you are talking adding it to the real deal and this a typical “G” varient may be possible but with modifications. I have technical drawing for the E-4/7, g-6/14, AND k-4 varients. they show componets locations, structure, load bearing and stress points for these aircraft. You are right the wireless (radio) IFF, will need to be relocated to make room for a retracting mech. and storage for the tail wheel. you would have to load it to fuselage structure that segment 1(7879) and segment 2/3 (7884) are attached to. 7879 being the primary load bearing attachment point for the rear fuselage to cockpit box structure. This also holds the fuel cell. the master compass may need relocated, eleverator control linkage may need help as well. You will not want to move or mess anything directly behind the cockpit (fuselage top keel), as there is a ton of stuff entering and exiting that point, like fuel fillers, oxygen bottles, antenna leads, fuses, electrical mw 50 bottles and lot more. There are 2 reinforcement box rails running from the segment 1 to segment 3 on both sides just (end ahead of the access panel on the left side). beefing these up and attaching the wheel to this is your best bet. it would spread the load out not only to the main fuselage load point but also the three larger stress points on the rear fuselage. Now the problems. I can’t see relocating any that stuff forward. It would have to go rearward. this means more plumbing and taxing an already cramped mid fuselage and upper keel area. Most likely this mod could be done. the effect it would have to a stock 109 flight performace I don’t know. I know they had issues with the 109K being very cramped and having weight issues. this one reason why the radio antenna attachment point was modified along with alot of other junk. moving stuff too far back or around is very bad don’t know exactlly why? weight disturbtion is very important for the aircraft. Moving the fuel tank in the 109 is impossible. lighter the aircraft more important weight is. Just by adding some metal parts to the tail of the 190D made the aircraft unflyable. Don’t ask my knowledge is lacking on this weight vs flight thing.
long meanless answer end.
Now that I said all of that your 109 has a jumo 004B attached to it[:O]. I doubt any of that structure is remotely close to a stock 109G so everything I just said means nothing. Unless you tail section is unchanged? the 109 in your pic that clearance wheel is atttched directly to 7879 structure just under the fuel cell. I would do what every you want to it not sweet the practical part of it too much. Even if your 109 tail was simliar on the outside doesn’t mean the guts have not been completely reworked to accept a tail wheel like that. you want a tail wheel by all means add it. On a stock 109 I would see a problem, with a what if radical design like that who to say what can or can’t be.
I think the only logical solution is to go buy an MPM Fw 189B and graft the tail booms and the other ancillary stuff on them to the wings of your used to be 109, after super-attenuating the stock tail of the 109, sort of like a tadpole does before it becomes a froggy.
Hi All
IT`S GOT WHEELS!
All I have to do now is tailwheel doors, inst panel, seat, joystick, canopy, weathering, diorama base, figures, vehicles, ancillary items etc…piece a cake, preferably walnut if you`ve got it.
regards Gary[8-]
Just a few pix of progress. Been having a busmans holiday.
day 1 Hannants and RAF Hendon.
day 2 Science Museum and Imperial War Museum.
day 3 Imp War Mus Duxford.
day 4 Shuttleworth Collection at Old Warden.
Think I`ve worn out me camera
regards Gary[8-]
HI all
AT LAST IT`s DONE
Decided to keep the dio simple as I have a lot of projects on the go and this was just supposed to be a ten day quickie. As to inspiration for this model it was the shadow under the wings below in the photo of the G-10 diorama Im building.
Oh well enjoy and all comments etc etc will be ignored[:D]
regards Gary[8-]
Very interestinnnngggg…as Schultz would say! Came out well, Gary. You’ll be able to stretch some legs when you show that one, won’t you. Nice airbrush work on the camouflage. I keep working down the pressure and thinning the paint, but I can’t do them that fine yet.
Very nicely done, Gary. You’ve created a plausible, cool looking airplane…I wonder what outomce on the war these would have had? As is typical with your builds, the airbrush work and weathering are top notch!
My vote: [^]
Thanks For the kind words.
Jeaton
Ive tried the low pressure and thinned mix method and still ended up with paint blown everywhere. For this I used only a slightly thinner paint mix and a higher air setting. The paint tended to hit the model nearly dry and caused less runs, but did dry on the needle quicker and required a quick wipe with a damp q-tip once in a while to avoidto much splatter. For this model I used Tamiya acrylic with cellulose as thinners. I think Ill try this again using the proper Tamiya thinner and see what happens.
ps Please explain “stretch your legs” does this mean nobody will be interested and I`ll have plenty of room?[:D]
regards Gary[8-]