I’m buliding a model of subject ship and the box art shows the four stacks as being orange. I don’t think that is correct, paintings show them as being light yellow. The movie shows them as a flesh color, anyone have any info on this.
Thanks,
Bill
I’m buliding a model of subject ship and the box art shows the four stacks as being orange. I don’t think that is correct, paintings show them as being light yellow. The movie shows them as a flesh color, anyone have any info on this.
Thanks,
Bill
Welcome to the Forum! You’ll find, I think, that it’s an interesting and - usually - congenial place. Its inhabitants tend to be a little weird, but most of us are relatively harmless.
You’ll find considerably more information about the Titanic than any civilized person would want to know on this site: http://titanic-model.com/ . Click on “Titanic Paint and Colors,” on the left side of the screen; then scroll down (a long way) to “White Star Buff.” The total mass of information is a bit intimidating, but the essential answer to your question turns out to be fairly straightforward.
Good luck. It’s a great hobby.
Now, now, Dr. Tilley, let’s not scare the lad shoves machete behind the sacks of lime Just ignore those spots that look like blood …
Wow, tells me everything I need to know. Thanks a million for the web address, I may need to go back a repaint some areas
That color is often referred to as “buff” and was a popular color on both civil and naval ships until around WW1. It is in between tan and orange. Not all these ships used exactly the same color, but it is obvious in viewing them or pictues of them that they were supposed to be this buff color.
Unfotunately, during that period there was no good standard to determine color from published pictures or movies. So any pictures cannot be taken as gospel. Even today matching the color of a published picture is very difficult. However, that is not too big a problem, because paints of that era were not that stable, especially to UV exposure. They changed color by the month
Personally I mix a flat yellow and a flat tan to get that color. One way to see an approximation to that color is to look for web sites that feature a museum ship of that period. There is a US cruiser or battleship that is a museum piece and it has buff stacks and some topside areas. But even web sites cannot guarantee absolutely accurate colors. Still- close enough in my opinion because of the weathering of period paints.
Don
I was always under the impression it was a “peach” color. Could that be a valid description, or should I rethink?
G
Going back to Doc Tilley’s cited reference I would call Ken Marschall’s (marine artist & Titanic expert) opinion on the color more of a beige than a peach.
Some of the other opinions and mix options do tend toward a yellow-beige tone. There is not an orange-yellow peachy skin color in the lot.
One additional item to add to Stauffers comments, early B&W films were responsive to different wavelengths of light. A yellow, for example, could actually print much darker than it actually was, blues could appear lighter. Before attempting to do color interpolation on B&W film you need to determine the kind of film used and what filters, if any, were also used.
The old Testors Marine Acrylic line of paints (now OOP) did include a Salmon Buff which tended toward the orange and a Panama Buff which to my eye is a good match for the colors cited in TRMA.
Sure, I think peach would qualify as a good description. It is hard today to know exactly what the color of the Titanic was. I think it is also harder for guys to describe that sort of color (what really is mauve?). The women seem to know names of colors better. But then do you trust a dictionary to describe color? I think word descriptions are not worth a whole lot anyway. Pictures are better but even then we have to be careful. Color accuracy even in the 21st century is a real can of worms.
Bill,
The closest color that is 99% perfect match is a Humbrol color called “Buff”, however, it is a gloss and you will need to dull it down some. I thin my paints with acetone about 10-15% to volume and then spray. The acetone helps bring down the gloss too. After I paint the stacks and then i spray testors dull coat on them to bring down the gloss I’ve built 17 Titanics for customers over the years and it has never failed me yet, See pictures link and let me know what you think.
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/556497477PLHUEe
Jake
jtilley,
Thanks for posting the link, I have a Revell 1/570 scale Titanic that I was wanting some reference material & photographs for. This site is very informative & helpful. They have the modeler’s eye for authentic detail & accuracy in mind.
Now I just need 1/570 scale PE hand rails and some thin strips of wood for the decking. Such a odd scale I may modify whatever is suitable.
The US Naval Institute Press has announced the publication of “RMS Titanic - a modelmaker’s manual”, due in November. The author is Peter Davies-Garner.
The announcement blurb: “RMS Titanic has had more written about her than any other ship, but surprisingly there is little information directed at the modelmaker. This superb book contains all the information needed to build a highly detailed accurate model, down to the tiniest details of the hull’s rivets. The work is based on the authors’s remarkable 18-foot model, built to 1/48 scale, and specially commissioned for a traveling exhibition in North America. Profusely illustrated with close-up photographs, detailed drawings, and a large collection of photographs of the prototype itself, the book also contains a large set of plans considered to be the most accurate yet drawn. With this mix of practical information, rare photographs, and highly detailed drawings this book will appeal to all Titanic enthusiasts as well as to ship modelers.”
160 pp., 400 b/w & color photos, line drawings, and full set of plans
7 1/2 x 9 3/4
ISBN 978-1-59114-729-9
Hardcover $42.95
BTW, the photo of the book’s jacket cover shows the stacks in a straw gold, not Marschall’s tannish buff
Consider 1:600 generic railings. That is 5% off. I will use something that is off a bit, with 5% being my limit.
Actually, generic railings won’t look right, as liners have 5-bar railings and generic railings will be 3-bar. Gold Medal Models makes a 1/600 Ocean Liner PE set (which we also stock) that is designed for Titanic & Lusitania, and would be your best bet for the 1/570 Titanic.
Thank you Dr. Tilley for the Titanic reference website. I am just starting the Mantua 1:200 scale kit I got from Model Expo. That site will be useful for the many colors I will need to paint on the model. I am building her to be radio controlled. I still need to find a place where I can get sound generators. I want to at least have the ships horn operational on her. Thanks again because the funnel color is uncertain and the website shows how to color them. Thanks again.[cptn]
In the 52 years I’ve followed the Titanic and all that implies, never have I had the hurdles I’m facing, just getting an image of the White Star buff colour for the funnels. It’s rather amusing to see the exchanges here. Proof that one must never give up.[H]