Hi guys! I’m about to apply some decals to my latest project using a set of after-market decals. I’ve read where a couple of people had some issues with the larger decals breaking up and I was hoping to avoid this problem. I know that Testors makes a decal bonder in a rattle can but I could have sworn I’ve heard other say that any clear coat will do. Is this true? I have a can of Testors metalizer sealer. Do you think that would work on the decal sheet or should I use a bonder formulated specifically for decals?
Try it. I’ve used Dullkote and Gloscote and they worked ok. I also tried clear acrylic artist fixative pray and that works. Just remember, you then have to cut the decal out exactly.
I have used clear gloss lacquer…same stuff as MM Metalizer sealer…but WAY cheaper!!!
Spray a light coat over each decal, once finished, spray a slightly heavier coat over each again. When it comes time to place the decals, cut as to the original film as you can…if ya don’t, you can get some nasty/flakey edges (from the sealer).
Thank you for the responses. I’ll give the metalizer sealer a try and report back how it worked. I’m going to try it on some smaller decals first to see how it reacts. As long as it doesn’t destroy the decal, I’ll be good with that.
Checkmateking, I think I might be able to find that stuff locally! (Surprise, surprise!) If I can track it down, I might give it a try. At the rate that I build models, I get so worried about the decals decomposing before I can use them! [:'(]
I believe you get the best results using a product designed for that usage, so I use the Micro Scale decal coat. Now, this is for decals that are disintegrating, or likely to, not for sealing decals after application (for that I use dullcoat or glosscoat).
BTW, there is a forum specially for decal questions, down near the bottom of the list. Not used very much- it should be.
I know what you mean, Eric. I usually put a thin coat of the decal film over any decals that are more than a few years old–just to be sure. Some decals are not replaceable, and if you’ve got a kit all painted up for a specific appearance, having the decals go bad and shatter is pretty disconcerting.
My vote goes to the Microscale product as well, even 40+ year old decals with a bad reputation for failing were treated then applied, without one breaking up. Great stuff.
I have used the decal sealer spray that is used for making your own decals. As stated you need to trim very close to the edge. I will have to try the Microscale product.
I have also scanned in decal sheets of older models prior to using them. This has saved me a couple of times especially the larger size decals like tail art and such. If the decal gets damaged, you can print out another copy to replace it.
Yes. It really only takes a single, thin coat, usually. I normally let it dry about half an hour, then trim and apply the decal.
One thing I’ve learned is to apply it before you trim the decal. If you trim the decal first, and if the solution then runs over the side, it might bind the decal to the backing paper and make your life miserable.
Another pointer: use a knife to trim the decal, if possible. The pressure of scissors can still crack the decal ink.
Both excellent suggestions. Indeed any coating that gets on the edges of a decal will hinder the seperation of the decal from the paper. And, if you print inkjet decals, be sure to leave some margin on the paper for the same reason- do not print too close to edge of paper.