What is a better way or product to mask canopies that Scotch tape? The tape route leaves a glue residue that I’m not cool with.
thanks,
Matt
Tamiya tape is pretty good for not leaving adhesive behind. So is Scotch brand painters tape. Some others may have additional ideas, so stay tuned.
…OH, and welcome to the forums!!! [:D]
[#ditto] Tamiya masking tape is what I normally use. Another good alternative, if you can find them, are pre-cut masks but they are specific to a particular model. I’d stay from most liquid masking products as they tend to be difficult to remove without scratching the canopy.
I personally use Black Magic canopy masks almost exclusively; so far I’ve been able to find them for all the kits I’ve been doing. You can get them at Meteor Productions website.
I’ve also used liquid masking and had great results with it. Never had a scratching problem, and it covers very well.
What brand do you use? I can’t remember what brands I have (I have 2 different kinds) and both of them tend to come off in little pieces. I quit using it, but while I did I usually wound up scraping it off with a toothpick.
I can’t remember off the top of my head…I’ll have to check when I get home this evening.
I usually just pull up the edge with a pair of needle-nose tweezers and then pull up the mask by hand. This stuff goes on nice and thick, so it’s not too hard to get a hold of.
I use a method for masking canopies that may sound primitive & laborius to the rest of you, but it’s always produced great results for me, so here goes. I put a piece of masking tape on each side of each individual frame (or on one side, if its an edge frame), press it down firmly with a fingertip, & then paint over the exposed frame. It may take 2 or 3 hours to do a really complex canopy, but I find that this method gives me the
most accuracy & controll. Curved frames can be a problem, but if you cut or tear your tape thin enough it helps. Sometimes I can use a piece of masking tape on one side of a curved frame & carefully freehand the outside edge where the masking tape can’t cornform. You can always scrape off any bleed through or other errors with the point of a round toothpick. Does this sound like something a ten year old kid would do? Does anybody else out there paint canopy frames like this?
I use Tamiya’s little tape out of habit, but it’s expensive and I’ve always had creep problems with it. So I never use it on canopies any more. Mostly for gentle curves or straight lines. It seems to be simple 3M one-inch masking tape cut in 1/16-inch strips. Does anybody else get that impression?
I use a product called Foto Frisket. You can find it in an arts and crafts store( i.e Michael’s in the art section). It comes in a pack of 10 8x10 sheets.
This stuff has a low tack adhesive on one side, strechable to a point and is clear once the backing paper is peeled off.
After you dip the canopy in future. You cut a piece large enough to cover the entire canopy peel the backing off and form it to the canopy.
Because this stuff is clear if you take a new #11 blade you can trace the framing of the canopy and just peel the strips off as you go. Burinsh it down and if you are worried about the paint bleeding under you can apply a little future with a brush around the edges.
I have left this frisket on canopies for weeks at a time and when it came time to peel it off it no residue what so ever.
Hope this helps
Paul
Hey, Matt, if when using Scotch tape, or any other tape for that matter, to mask canopies and you find there’s some adhesive left on the (canopy) surface, just get a fresh cut piece of the same tape and dab the sticky side on the residue spots. The residue will adhere to the tape cleanly since it’s the same type of adhesive.
I use Scotch Magic tape on roughly straight canopies (minimum of curved lines) since I find it tends to lift on complex curves. Instead of cutting 1/16" strips of tape for difficult tasks I use Micron Line Tape which I bought from an R/C shop (I believe they use it for trim and detailing). They’re available in different widths down to 0.4 mm. The smallest widths are impractical for masking but great for colored trims on canopy frames. I buy the 1 mm width which works great and is very flexible. Paint tends to creep in if laid on heavily so I employ light coats over several passes. Masks like a charm!
Call me backwards, but I’m trying to find all the ways I can avoid masking canopies, by using different materials to actually make the frames. I first used it on my 1:72 B-36 with Bare-Metal Foil strips.
It worked on this model because of the NMF, so this has its shortcomings for painted scemes. That, and curves were a little difficult. I heard decal strips can be painted and used much the same way as this. Right now I’m working on a theory with VHS tape film. I’ll get back as soon as I conduct some tests…
i just wait until the paint drys to the touch and i take it off, it usually never leaves residue because it doesn’t have enough time for the residue to stick to the canopy
I use parafilm. Masked off my donar 109g thats has a billion paint jobs and white putty Zimmerit (dont ask) on it. The canopy has the best paint lines I have ever made with a mask…love this stuff.
Can be found at Micromark.
I have always have had problems with painting canopys.I use the scotch blue painters tape.It works but can I use a air brush or do I still use a regular hobby brush on painting the pains without getting paint on the actual window?
thankx
brad
I use 3M low tack painter tape. It has worked for me. I have tried parafilm and really didnt like it. But thats just me. Oh and by the way [#welcome] to the forums.
Brad, it would be better if you airbrush the paint. Handbrushing paints may cause bleeding of the color under the mask since the paint is sufficiently thick when you brush it on. If you are bent on brushing the paint, seal the edges of the mask with Future as Paul said.
Parafilm M just needs a light touch when used. it’s really weird stuff, feels like air and when you gently press it down with your finger, you can ball it up if you rubb too much [:D]. I had to use a good bit of it on my practice model…Hase’s 190g…heck of a donar huh[;)], but got it down.Really awesome lines from it and it cuts very easily with really no pressure applied to get it through the film. Good stuff.
I use bare metal foil, it can be tedious to work with but if used corectly you will achieve the desired outcome.
I use Master Mask by Hobbico and it seems to work well if you get it thick enough, when you apply it make sure you can’t see through the mask easily. Then after it dries overnight, I score along the areas I want painted lightly with a new xacto blade… the discard I pull off with the tip of a rounded toothpick.
If put on heavy enough it comes off easily. Be careful when removing the discard from the parts you want painted, if you didn’t score all the way through the mask it will pull up the mask from where you DONT want paint. usually if this happens I just lightly press on the mask over the area to remain masked and (if airbrushed, not free hand) there’s no bleed to it…
Depending on the complexity of the canopy, I’ll use Bare Metal Foil or Scotch Magic tape. They both work great although tape leaves more residue to clean up.[:)]
To remove the residue, use another piece of tape. Just place over the spot, burnish down and lift quickly. Be careful you dont lift the paint.