Greetings; as the header says, I tried using a thin (1/4 inch or so) layer of Celluclay mixed with some “kid” powder white paint on top of a (sealed) wood base to mimic a tarmac. And yes, I know, forgot the Elmer’s glue, oopsie!
But my question is… I cannot get a very flat surface. The texture is smooth enough but still has some tiny bumps and imperfections. Can I get a flat FLAT surface using Celluclay? First time I am using the stuff; I am trying to make simple bases for my builds.
A whitish piece of cardboard could also do the trick; but the one I tried to glue to a (sealed) cheap wood base warped and corrugated.
Any suggestions, besides actually buying a base? cheers [B]
PS Sorry for the cross post with AIRCRAFT forum, but I figured I would get a good answer from here
I would probably use plaster smooth the surface with a flat edge, like a metal ruler, use a wire brush to texture the surface, score the lines and add details. That is what I did on these:
I use modelling clay to make my tarmac or roadway.Use a kitchen rolling pin with saran wrap in between surfaces ,you will be able to do what you want . This was pressed onto a rough surface and rolled out ,it is very smooth on the rolled surface.
DItto on what was said above, I’d really try to mix a plaster mixture and use that. Celluclay, in my experience, will never be completely flat and level. Its a poor material for emulating tarmac or concrete.
Vespa – That is a good looking tarmac… someone else also suggested drywall plaster, will get some at home depot on my next trip.
Krow – very nice looking; good point about wrapping saran wrap on your rolling pin… ugh… I tried a roller on the wet celluclay, but neglected to cover it with saran wrap or parafilm. (Great bike build btw!)
Zok – You are right; I tried to smooth out the Celluclay but it will just not play (dead) flat. I just managed to poke holes in one of my practice bases : ( I tried gentle sanding, but my layer was so thin that I also ended up ripping holes…. Ugh…
Again, thanks all for the great info and adding more useful stuff to my home depot run Cheers [B]
vespa boy, those look great. I had suggested rough surface cardboard, but i think i might give plaster a try. And i like how you have painted that. So far all mine have been WW2 ones and i have done any markings. I hope when i do i get results like that. What scale kits are those for.
JMart, glad to be able to offer some help. I used casting plaster from an art shop. Don’t worry about getting a perfect surface…nothing is perfect in real life so just make the imperfections in scale. Show us some pics of your WIP.
Bish, I am glad you like the runways. These are 1/24-ish scale. They were eyeballed from the plane window in San Francisco (upper one) and the waiting lounge in Chicago (lower). In the lower one, I was able to glue fine glass spheres on the lines, so that in the right lighting it is reflective.
I don’t really like to use celluclay because of the shrinkage factor. I have used 2-part epoxy in the past but the problem with that was that it set real fast and was extremely difficult ie: hard to sand smooth:
and I have also used thick styrene, scribed and lightly ‘roughed up’:
All gave me what I was looking for and was sort of happy with the results… My photography sux but for the ease of application etc, the styrene way worked best for me. Concrete in 1/35th (or smaller) is quite smooth… even pavement in those scales would be fairly smooth to the eye IMHO.
If I were to do it again, I’d probably opt for using a self-hardening modeling clay but I would think that would still be too ‘rough’ to be realisting no matter what fine grit sandpaper you use. I may be tempted to give it a shot anyway.
Look for ‘wet’ paper in say 800+ grit depending on scale, some even comes in light gray. It can be painted directly, dry brushed, weathered just like real concrete. Its flat by nature and has the correct texture. The ‘sections’ can be cut and a expansion gap left between them. No need to simulate this as it is a gap!
Again ditto vespaboy. Plaster or, my favorite stuff, Durham’s Rock Hard Water Putty. If you can put 2 strips of basswood, balsa or styrene o ether side, use a straight edge as a screed and it will be perfectly flat. You could even build up the edges and mix that water putty thinner and pout it in and let it self level. What I like about the water putty is that even if you did the latter, I feel the water putty is harder and more durable that plaster.
I am deffinatly going to try this. While the cardboard gives good results, there are issues. Not sure if the plaster will be to rough in 72nd, just have to make sure i smooth it a bit more, but will also be useful for 35 dio’s.
I assume when you guys say Plaster, you mean the stuff you get from art shops. I have had a look for that Durham Water Putty you mention wing nut, but seems its only available in the US.
cheers [B]
Cheers [B]