Starting with a new bottle, first thing I do is wipe the lid clean. After that, I stir with a “T” shaped bit of sprue in the Dremel…never shake…never have a stuck lid…never have wasted building time!
Actually, I just punch a hole in the cap, Tarn, lol…
now, where is the fun in that??
not to mention the satisfaction,“I am Jarhead,thump,me got paint open”
If I was a Marine, I probably woulda just chewed it open… [;)]
Yup, that’s what I’d do… [:P] I love the feel of metal between my clenching teeth…
quit a few years ago my kids got me a set of Sear Craftsmen strap wrenches for a fathers day gift these are great for forzen jar caps. Put the rubber strap around the cap get a good grip on bottle push handle cap off. ACESES5 ON BENCH ACADEMY 1/35 M3 GRANT
When I do get a stubborn cap that won’t come off, I just place the paint jar in a small glass or a coffee cup, and run the tap water till its steaming hot and let the jar sit in that for a few minutes. Then just use the pliers and twist it off. Then clean the lid out before I close it back up.
I know my ball cap is too small to read in my avatar on here
It says “once a Marine, always a Marine”
That is why I make so many dumb Jarhead jokes
but, on this topic, all kidding aside,I have actually broken paint bottles trying to get them open,and even cut the “holding hand” once, while prying the cap off with pliers
Now, in my old dotterage,if a cap is that stuck,that paint is probably as old as my son, lol (he was born in '79, the year I got out of the Corps)
So,I just don’t play with it if it wants to be that stuck,I use it for “shooting a basket” into the ole round file,and either pull out another bottle with a newer date on the office dot I put on top of them all,or get a new one soon at the paint store
as expensive as hobby paint is,it reallllllllllly stings if you get that paint carrier fluid in a fresh glass cut on your hand
Try dipping the enamel bottle cap down into lacquer thinner and let it sit for a while. I’ve never used acrylics but, I’m guessing the same treatment as the enamel bottles but using denatured alcohol would work.
Good luck
Ray
The Hammer hammer -chuckle -chew it off -big chuckle … you guys are killing me now my face hurts --Thanks !
Or shot it?
Only in California.
Eric
As others have stated, I also turn the bottle upside down and put a few drops of thinner in the threads and let it sit a few minutes.
For Tamiya bottles, the quickest and first thing I usually do is turn it upside down and give the lid a quick, hard rap or two flat against the table top. This is usually enough to break whatever seal has formed and allow me to remove the lid. If not, I go to the thinner in the threads route.
I know somebody mentioned airbrush lube already - has anybody ever tried putting Vaseline on the threads before reclosing the bottle? I’ve thought about it, but not sure if it would somehow contaminate the paint or not. Anybody else have experience with this?
If it’s Tamiya/Gunze, use the aptly named, mr. bottle opener.
You guys are seriously behind in times…
Mr. Bottle Openener looks like a good idea, but they need to make an Uncle Bottle opener that works on the Model Master and little square Testor’s bottle’s metal lids.
…explosives…
I use the little testors enamels almost exclusively for brush painting. IF I find a stubborn lid, dipping my brush in thinner and running it around the screw area helps loosen it. A few taps on the table dont hurt either…but every now and again I get one thats really really stuck. Then I bust out the hardware!
First I take a tool that looks like this (I think its a wrench?):
and size it the same as the bottle. The square shape keeps the jar from running away as I grab the lid with a tool (pliers?) that looks like this:
and twist in opposite directions. So far, Its worked every time!
Owl-
The top tool is an adjustable wrench and the other one is adjustable gas pliers…[:D]
Len
I am not good with tool-names. I just know they work! [:$]